Art and soul An homage to art
Artists through history have lovingly rendered food into art: a slab of cake bathed in golden light, plump fruit, mackerel glistening on the table. Here Fiona Hugues pays them homage by doing the opposite
As a rather opinionated and passionate stylist I’m forever harping on about the crossover between fashion and interiors, art and food. I find it fascinating how our culture constantly feeds into and inspires the work of creatives working in a host of mediums. For fun, I’ve based this collection of seasonal recipes on depictions of food in art – from 19th-century still lifes of fruit and fish to Andy Warhol’s comment on modern consumerism using cans of Campbell’s soup.
JOHN FREDERICK PETO LEMONY BURNT BUTTER CAKE
SERVES 10-12 Sometimes a desire arises for a basic, uncomplicated cake just like the deliciouslooking wedge in John Frederick Peto’s 1890 still life (previous page). Buttery and rather plain with a dusting of icing sugar, this cake fits the bill. Although unpretentious in looks, it is full of lemon and fresh cream with a nutty note of burnt butter. Serve with yoghurt or whipped cream.
INGREDIENTS
4 large free-range eggs
220g icing sugar, plus extra for dusting ½ tsp vanilla paste
Finely grated zest and juice 1 large lemon 160ml fresh cream
120g butter
270g flour (around 2 cups)
2 tsp baking powder
Handful whole freeze-dried strawberries
1 Preheat oven to 180°C fanbake. Grease and flour a 26cm springform cake tin.
2 In a stand mixer (or with electric beaters) beat eggs and icing sugar until fluffy. Add vanilla, zest and cream and mix gently to just combine.
3 In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and let it foam. When it begins to smell nutty and go brown, immediately remove from the heat and set aside to cool completely.
4 Sift together the flour, baking powder and a pinch of salt.
5 With a spatula, gently fold flour mixture and cooled butter into egg mixture; don’t over-mix. Pour into tin and bake for about 35-40 minutes.
6 Remove from oven, cool for 10 minutes then remove from tin and sprinkle lemon juice over warm cake. To serve, dust with icing sugar and decorate with freeze-dried strawberries.
ANDY WARHOL SOUP
SERVES 6-8 Andy Warhol’s iconic 1962 work Campbell’s
Soup Cans of repeated red and white inspired me to delve into the pantry and peruse my stack of tins on a recent grey, wet day. To my delight I discovered a variety of tinned tomatoes. Usually they are tossed into slow-cooking dishes or converted into pasta sauces, but on that occasion they were destined for this rather smashing soup, served here with feta toasties made with mixed grain bread.
INGREDIENTS
50g butter
1 red onion, sliced
1 medium carrot, roughly chopped
1 large stick celery, roughly chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
2 sprigs thyme
2 fresh bayleaves
2 x 400g tins chopped tomatoes
850ml chicken stock
2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
200g crème fraîche
Extra virgin olive oil, for brushing bread and serving 8 slices grainy bread 100g feta, crumbled
Fresh basil leaves, to serve
1 In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt butter then add onion, carrot and celery and sauté for 10-15 minutes until really soft. Add garlic, thyme and bayleaves and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the tomatoes and chicken stock, stir then simmer gently for 30 minutes.
2 Remove bayleaves and thyme. Add balsamic vinegar then use a stick blender or processor to blitz soup until completely smooth. Reserve 4 Tbsp of crème fraîche and stir the rest into the soup, mixing well to combine. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.
3 Lightly brush olive oil on one side of bread slices. Turn over four slices and sprinkle with feta then top with remaining bread (oiled side up). Grill in a sandwich press until golden and cheese has melted, then cut in half diagonally (or fry on both sides in a dry, medium-hot frying pan, pressing down with a fish slice).
4 Pour into bowls, adding a dollop of reserved crème fraîche, a swirl of extra virgin olive oil and two basil leaves to each. Serve with toasties.
VAN GOGH FISH TAGINE WITH LEMONS & TOMATOES
SERVES 4-5
The colour combination in Vincent van Gogh’s Still Life with Mackerels, Lemons
and Tomatoes continually inspires me; its beautiful simplicity and use of commonplace items is a source for much of my styling work. A super-simple peasant-style dish of fish, baby potatoes and citrusy tomatoes is my homage to this wonderful painting. Serve with Israeli couscous or crusty bread for mopping up the juices.
INGREDIENTS
1 truss small, vine-ripened tomatoes (about 7-8 tomatoes)
Olive oil, for cooking and marinade
1 large bunch coriander, plus extra to serve 1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed
2 cloves garlic, chopped
Juice 2 lemons, plus extra for serving 2 tsp hot smoked paprika
½ tsp dried chilli flakes (optional)
600g firm white fish fillets, cut into 6-8cm chunks – I used red cod
2 red onions, sliced
3cm piece ginger, finely julienned
6-8 threads saffron
½ preserved lemon, skin only, rinsed and chopped 2 Tbsp tomato paste
350ml vegetable stock
12 bite-sized gourmet potatoes (I used the new Piccolo variety), cooked until tender
12 tiny cherry tomatoes
Cooked Israeli couscous or crusty bread, to serve
1 Heat oven to 160°C fanbake. Lay tomato truss on a baking paper-lined baking tray, drizzle with a little olive oil, sprinkle with salt and bake for 30 minutes until softened. Set aside.
2 In a processor (or a bowl with a stick blender), make the fish marinade. Blitz 4 Tbsp of olive oil with fresh coriander, cumin, coriander seeds, garlic, lemon juice, paprika, chilli (if using) and salt and pepper to taste. Place fish in a bowl, pour marinade on top and let it marinate for at least 30 minutes.
3 In a large saucepan, heat 1 Tbsp olive oil and cook onion and ginger until softened. Add saffron and fry for 1 minute. Add preserved lemon, tomato purée and stock, bring to boil then lower heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
4 Remove fish from marinade and add to sauce, along with cooked potatoes and cherry tomatoes. Cook for 5-7 minutes or until the fish is cooked through.
5 Taste and season with extra lemon juice and salt. Lay tomato truss on top, sprinkle with coriander and serve with couscous or bread.
TOBIAS STRANOVER’S CHICKEN & ALMONDS
SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL OR 6 AS A STARTER Painting in London in the first half of the 18th century, Tobias Stranover specialised in oils of exotic and native birds, such as his Peacock, Hen and Cock Pheasant in a
Landscape pictured here. I’m lucky enough to have my own free-ranging chickens to admire, and when the girls are in action I’m forever coming up with new ways to enjoy their eggs. A current favourite is this salad with almonds adding rich, toasty flavour notes (the secret is to roast them until they’re dark). This salad also makes a great filling for a hearty sandwich.
INGREDIENTS
⅔ cup raw almonds
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
⅓ cup crème fraîche
1 Tbsp Dijon mustard
¼ tsp celery seeds
3 Tbsp white balsamic vinegar (or good white wine vinegar)
2 cooked chicken breasts, cut into large dice (I used breasts from a rotisserie chicken) 3 stalks celery, chopped
½-1 cup celery leaves, roughly chopped 1½ cups red seedless grapes, halved
½ red onion, finely sliced
4 free-range eggs, hard-boiled and chopped
1 Dry roast the almonds in the oven at 180°C fanbake for around 12 minutes until fragrant and dark, but don’t let them burn. Remove from oven and set aside. When cool, roughly chop.
2 Make a dressing by whisking together the oil, crème fraîche, mustard, celery seeds and balsamic, and season with salt and pepper. Pour over the chicken and mix to thoroughly coat.
3 In a large bowl combine all the other ingredients then add the chicken mixture and toss gently to incorporate. Arrange on a platter and sprinkle with the chopped, roasted almonds.
‘FARMERS PLANTING POTATOES’ TARTIFLETTE
SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL OR 6 AS A STARTER I adore the sombre colours in Vincent van Gogh’s Farmers Planting Potatoes; when I first saw it, it instantly made me think of desolate, wet days and street vendors selling steaming, salty, cheesy tartiflette from little carts. This fantastic, fortifying spud dish full of cheese and salty bacon bits is found at most markets in France. It’s the perfect reviver after a long, chilly morning spent watching the kids play sport, and blimmin’ great as a main meal with a simple green salad.
INGREDIENTS
1kg floury potatoes, peeled, halved (I used Agria) 300g bacon lardons, roughly 1cm x 3cm (I cut my own from a slab of dry-cured bacon)
Oil, for frying
2 large shallots, sliced
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
100ml dry white wine
250ml fresh cream
Sea salt
Reblochon cheese, sliced (if you can’t find it, use raclette or any good melting cheese)
Small gherkins (cornichons) and white cocktail onions, to serve
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C fanbake.
2 Cook the potatoes in a saucepan of salted, boiling water for 5-10 minutes or until tender. Drain and set aside to cool slightly.
3 Fry lardons in a dash of oil until just beginning to brown, then add shallots and garlic and cook for 3-4 more minutes or until lightly goldenbrown. Add wine to deglaze the pan and cook for 1-2 minutes to slightly reduce the liquid.
4 Cut potatoes into 3mm-thick slices and layer them into an ovenproof dish. Sprinkle over the bacon mixture and tuck in any wayward pieces. Pour over the cream and season with sea salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Lay the cheese slices on top.
5 Bake for 10-15 minutes or until the cheese is golden brown and bubbling. Serve hot with cornichons and cocktail onions on the side.
RENÉ MAGRITTE APPLE, WALNUT & CELERIAC SALAD
SERVES 4 Celeriac is in season now and mustn’t be overlooked. It’s admittedly a boring-looking vege but don’t be fooled by the exterior; its white flesh has the most elegant, subtle celery flavour. It’s great cooked and mashed but I cherish it crunchy and raw. This salad combines fresh celeriac with sweet, toasted walnuts, tart apples and a subtle kick of creamy horseradish. Try it with smoked chicken or fish.
INGREDIENTS ½ cup walnut halves 2 Tbsp maple syrup Fine sea salt 3 Granny Smith apples Juice 1 lemon 1 medium celeriac 200ml crème fraîche 4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp sherry vinegar (or 1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar)
1 heaped tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp horseradish
Handful salad leaves (I used red and green cos) 1 Toast the walnut halves in a dry frying pan over medium-high heat for 2-3 minutes, then drizzle over the maple syrup, stirring to coat. Cook for another 2 minutes until the nuts are coated and sticky, sprinkle with a little sea salt and tip onto a piece of baking paper to cool.
2 Using a mandoline, thinly slice the apples and place in a large bowl. Add lemon juice and toss.
3 Peel and halve the celeriac then shred into matchsticks using a julienne blade on a mandoline (or grate the celeriac). Immediately add to apple slices and toss to coat in the lemon juice to prevent browning.
4 In a small bowl, mix together the crème fraîche, olive oil, vinegar, Dijon mustard and horseradish then season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add to apple and celeriac and stir to combine.
5 Scatter salad leaves on a serving platter, place the apple and celeriac mixture on top and scatter with the maple walnuts. Drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil if needed and serve with crusty bread.