ERE NICOLI

Ere Nicolini popularly known as Ere Dappa is a designer that has ranked amongst Nigeria’s top 10 designers for over a decade. She it was, who turned beading of the Ankara fabric into a work of art. Most of her clothes are like creative pieces and they have graced several catwalks both here and abroad. Ere Dappa’s pieces are not easily affordable so each piece acquired is like a collector’s item. When Ere recently turned 50, she decided to have a fashion show to mark the occasion. This is the first time the brand was having its own solo fashion show and Ere pulled all stops to ensure it was a night to remember. Her use of plus size models made it more exciting. She spent a lovely afternoon with KONYE NWABOGOR reflecting on her life so far, her plans for the future and of course, her take in the fashion industry. How long have you been in the fashion business?

In 1994 on my return from the UK, back to nigeria, without much delay, I delved straight into the creative scene. I started in 1995, producing hand- made leather handbags and sandals which I sold locally and later moved onto exporting my creations to exclusive boutiques in the south of France and Italy. The clothing line came much later in my career making women’s wear clothing. What was the reason for your latest fashion show?

First and foremost this was the unveiling of ere Dappa, my first solo debut launch in my home country nigeria Having never done an independent fashion show before, what did you aim to achieve with the concept of your latest collection?

The collection is titled ‘Vintage Meets Contemporary’. I not only wanted to express my love for art, but I also sought to control my own creative process from choice of fabrics to application of beadwork technique and I used adire eleko, an old batik method of hand-painting designs using cassava starch prior to dyeing to create unique prints inspired by old oshogbo heritage arts and culture. You are the pioneer of beading ankara fabrics and a few of your past numbers are known for their intricate and detailed beadings. But they are on the high side when it comes to pricing. So what plans are in the making to make your outfits more affordable?

I have always had a wide selection of clientele from the high end to the medium range and I stock very affordable pieces that cater to this clientele. What has been the highlights of your career so far? highlights of my career so far include: • ‘Lifetime Achievements Award’ from the inaugural launch of arise Fashion show awards.

• Showcasing an exclusive collection for the inaugural launch of Fashion For Development to an exclusive viewing of First ladies from around the world at the waldorf astoria in new york.

• Appearing in L’uomo Vogue Italia with a smashing article titled ‘eredappa, the Pride of nigeria’.

• Art Exhibition in Italy titled “Arte e Bellezza” where I produced a masterpiece with one hundred handmade marble beads from the Michaelangelo quarry in Carrarra, Italy.

• The purchase of my signature piece “Peacock”, by The British Museum for preservation. Most times, where do you get your inspirations from? My inspirations come largely from a higher ground. nature, colour and travel are strong influences. What do you think of the fashion industry so far in terms of growth?

The fashion industry has come a long way. we are very grateful to personalities like Prince nduka ogbaigbena, publisher (ThIsDay) for promoting the Fashion industry within and outside the country. giving a lift to the trade and giving us designers visibility and credence. we pray for continuity.

we also have the gT Fashion week and the lagos Fashion week that jointly give opportunities to emerging Designers to showcase their talents and give visibility to the brand. This is also commendable as they have remained consistent in doing so.

The fashion industry has really evolved, it’s booming and there are a lot of creative talents expressing themselves through their own vision. There are lesser ways of promoting this vision as most of these emerging talents rely on word of mouth for growth. What are the major challenges in a business like yours?

Major challenges are high costs of production including power supply, manpower costs, and also not having enough distribution outlets to be able to make sales. There is a new crop of emerging designers. How do you feel the government can play a bigger role in enhancing this industry?

The Government can recognize talent by setting up institutions where people can go to learn the trade. They can also sponsor fashion designers to study abroad as well as fund events and initiatives to promote and support fashion businesses. You recently turned 50. Why did you decide to do something different from the conventional birthday parties? and tell us why you also used unconventional models and personalities?

50 is a special age, a jubilee celebration requires a unique way to mark it. In anna wintour’s (editor of vogue America) words, “Fashion has gone beyond using skinny models and is more of everyday people that effect our immediate environment”. In line with that, seeing as I have a large clientele of plus size women, it only made it more realistic and interactive to have them participate in what I felt was a very enjoyable and great fashion show.

also involving my very high profile clients was a way of showing gratitude and appreciation for their continued support throughout my career and I thank god and remain humbled for them honoring and gracing the occasion. They made all the difference do you have any plans to include some form of philanthropy into your business at some point or are the any other new areas you plan to explore related to your business?

Fashion is forever evolving and there are always new avenues to explore. From next year I will be branching out with a new diffusion line of accessories. You also have a very high profile clientele. do you intend to focus on just them or do you plan to introduce a junior line to your business?

I have always catered for different categories of women, I do not restrict my trade to any particular class of women, however, my primary objective is to make women look beautiful and to transform and enhance their looks with beautiful clothing. This I’m told I do quite well, thankfully so. as in all professions, there are times when you face various challenges and also times when something happens and you convince yourself it is all worth it. Can you give us a few incidents where the gratification of your customers has really left you exhilarated?

There have been many incidences of this. My relationship with my clients goes beyond a business transaction and many of them have now become good friends. There was a particular instance when a customer of mine, ‘who is now a very good friend’, was in need of a dress for her 50th birthday party/ renewal of marriage vows. she couldn’t afford the dress she wanted, but we were able to come to a compromise and she got it.

she later sent me a prayer message to express her gratitude for providing her a beautiful dress to mark the special occasion, and said that she was the “belle of the ball”. She went on to express how many of her friends were pleasantly surprised as there was an instant transformation with the way she looked. This will always be one of my fondest memories.

another fond memory is a client who went out on a date and got proposed to, wearing one of my dresses.

These are glorious moments that I will forever

The fashion industry has come a long way. we are very grateful to personalities like Prince nduka ogbaigbena, Publisher (Thisday) for promoting the Fashion industry within and outside the country. giving a lift to the trade and giving us designers visibility and credence.

cherish and remember as periods in my career when making clothes has touched lives and made an impact. In all your creations so far, one or two pieces must have had a special place in your heart. Can you describe a few of such pieces and the works entailed to create such masterpieces?

There have been several pieces that have left indelible impressions, one of such was the creation of my signature piece the “peacock”.

During the process of making this dress, so many elements were at play, i.e. colour, form, cut, design, but the greatest realization was the outcome of the 3D kaleidoscopic effect of the interplay of colours.

not envisaging the outcome, the finished product left me stunned. You delved into footwear very early in your career. do you intend to include accessories in your collection in future?

one of my strongest passions is designing footwear. A lot of my clients that patronized me back then, are still clamoring for me to return to it, I intend to go back to manufacturing of leather handbags and footwear in the near future, god willing. You have embraced adire and Batik in your latest collection. do you intend to focus more on these fabrics and less in ankara in future?

as a designer our greatest challenge remains reinventing fashion in modern rendition clothing, using latest materials and designing styles that are trending globally.

I will always include ankara in my work, as I find the local fabric very colourful and the patterns expressive and reminiscent of african tradition. notwithstanding, keeping up with the ever evolving trends, exploring and experimenting new inspirations is very much in keeping with my work. You also have a slim frame. do you do any form of exercise to maintain your lithe figure? a real struggle keeping it up, I’ll have you know. Where do you see ere dappa in the next 5-10 years? reaching unimaginable heights! Many global fashion houses employ young hands to work with brand as a breath of fresh air and these hands later move on to create their own brands. do you plan to inject new hands into your business for more variety and growth in future?

with The almighty ordering my steps! My present forecast for the brand focus, there will be element of growth that will include expansion and a larger workforce. Lastly, in a cut-throat business like the fashion industry, what key traits are required to ensure you have the staying power to survive?

Consistency and strong passion for designing clothes. Being flexible with your work staff and patience.

The government can recognize talent by setting up institutions where people can go to learn the trade. They can also sponsor fashion designers to study abroad as well as fund events and initiatives to promote and support fashion businesses.