‘LAND OF RUBIES’
Scratching a living in Myanmar’s storied
Every week Aye Min Htun prays he will find the ruby that changes his life, one of thousands of people scratching a living in Myanmar’s mines set to gain little from the end of US sanctions on the military-dominated industry.
For centuries emperors, kings and warlords have vied for control over the valley of Mogok, north of Mandalay, once known as the “land of rubies” for its extraordinary treasure trove of jewels. Its unique “pigeon-blood” stones are the most expensive coloured gems in the world — last year the so-called Sunrise Ruby sold for a record $30.3 million, over $1 million a carat.
Myanmar produces more than 80 per cent of the world’s rubies, yet decades of isolation under the former military junta means the industry remains cloaked in mystery. But the focus on it is sharpening. In October, the US lifted sanctions barring imports of the rubies in recognition of the country’s shift towards democracy under the new government of Aung San Suu Kyi.
Experts fear any boom will end up lining the pockets of military men and their friends who control much of the gem trade. Aye Min Htun earns less than $200 a month working in a small, open-cast mine on the valley floor, but if he found a valuable ruby his commission could set him up for life.
“My dream is to set up a business if I am successful in mining,” the 19-year-old said on a rare recent visit by journalists to Mogok’s mines.
“I believe in spirits... I pray they will give me a big, good-quality stone.”
Behind him a dozen men use high-pressure hoses to dislodge earth from the side of the crater, which is then sorted on wooden tables by barefoot workers. It is dangerous work — landslides are a frequent hazard.
“I’m always reminding the mine workers to be careful... They are just kids,” said Manager Pauksi, who goes by one name.