City guide: Kuala Lumpur

Old China Cafe (11 Jalan Balai Polis; oldchina.com.my, pictured) is an intimate eatery in an old, antique-cluttered shophouse that serves Nonya (Chinese-Malay fusion) dishes from Melaka and Penang, including a mighty good beef rendang.

Songket (29, Jalan Yap Kwan Seng; songketrestaurant.com) has a great range of Malay dishes and others from around southeast Asia, and also entertains with traditional dancing and singing.