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comes with boat-only access; putt over in a hire dinghy or paddle across with Sea Kayak (seakayak. com.au, tours from $85). If you’d prefer to put your knees up than towel down, take the Forts Walk, a simple but satisfying four-kilometre hike taking in World War 2 ruins and stunning sea views.

Hourly Sealink ferries (sealinkqld. com.au, 6.30am–11.30pm, adult/ child/family return $33/16.50/ 76) run between the mainland and Maggie.

SCUBA DIVING Home to vibrant coral gardens, ghostly wrecks and some of the Great Barrier Reef’s most pristine dive sites, Townsville’s underwater world is well worth the plunge. The region’s subterranean showstoppers lie further offshore than from Cairns, making for fewer crowds, more fish and a sublime sense of being truly remote.

For those with experience, the SS Yongala is a must-dive; lying 30