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Paradise - - Traveller -

comes with boat-only ac­cess; putt over in a hire dinghy or pad­dle across with Sea Kayak (seakayak. com.au, tours from $85). If you’d pre­fer to put your knees up than towel down, take the Forts Walk, a sim­ple but sat­is­fy­ing four-kilo­me­tre hike tak­ing in World War 2 ru­ins and stun­ning sea views.

Hourly Sealink fer­ries (sealinkqld. com.au, 6.30am–11.30pm, adult/ child/fam­ily re­turn $33/16.50/ 76) run be­tween the main­land and Mag­gie.

SCUBA DIV­ING Home to vi­brant co­ral gar­dens, ghostly wrecks and some of the Great Bar­rier Reef’s most pris­tine dive sites, Townsville’s un­der­wa­ter world is well worth the plunge. The re­gion’s sub­ter­ranean show­stop­pers lie fur­ther off­shore than from Cairns, mak­ing for fewer crowds, more fish and a sub­lime sense of be­ing truly re­mote.

For those with ex­pe­ri­ence, the SS Yon­gala is a must-dive; ly­ing 30

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