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WATERFALLS AND RAINFOREST In the Atherton Tablelands, west of Cairns, forest-clad mountain ranges conceal waterfalls that plunge into enticing freshwater swimming holes. Most are accessible year-round and provide safe swimming holes devoid of saltwater crocodiles and marine stingers. The Waterfall Circuit, near Millaa Millaa, has five waterfalls close to each other. Less than one hour from the city, Behana Gorge is another, which is reached via a concrete path that gently ascends through forest. It’s well worth the walk as there’s a deep-water pool among towering rock outcrops at the base of the waterfall. Closer to Cairns is

Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Cairns 13 times a week. See airniugini.com.pg. Crystal Cascades, where you’ll find a series of swimming holes, small waterfalls and shady picnic areas linked by paths. See millaamillaa.com.