Out There
Bougainville waterfalls and rainforest
In the back of a dusty blue Land Cruiser with a cracked windscreen, we speed our way towards the mountainous region of Rotokas in central Bougainville. As we reach the end of the road for the vehicle, it’s time for three days of hiking through rainforest and crossing rivers that not many, beyond locals, get to see.
Steadily making our way up to 700 metres altitude, the occasional break in rainforest provides views across the craggy Crown Prince and Emperor ranges, as our guide, Luke, from Rotokas Ecotourism, leads us two hours up a local footpath to Sisivi, where we’ll spend two-nights in a village-style house, before walking onto Togarao for a third and final night.
After a friendly welcome in Sisivi, we watch the sun disappear behind the dominant volcano, Mount Balbi, known locally as Tutie, and then head off with our torches to find a shower, courtesy of a bamboo cane that cleverly redirects water from a creek. Back at the house, a dinner of chicken, kaukau, banana and rice awaits; then, not long after we’re bedded down in our sleeping sacks, frogs and crickets provide a calming soundtrack.
Day two, and we’re off for a six-hour walk (return) to the Ukoto Caves. We pick up an entourage of men, women, children and dogs from neighbouring hamlets. After a short distance, we plunge into the first of many rivers that we’ll wade through and rock-hop along for most of the day – this isn’t a walk for dry feet.
After three hours, our guide points straight up a vertical rock wall and says we’ve made it to the caves. He effortlessly starts to climb, and I attempt to imitate his movements, albeit with far less elegance, clutching for vines and roots with a slight air of desperation.
About four metres up, a cave mouth comes into sight. We’ve made it! But no, there’s a second cave higher up, we’re told, as our guide motions to continue climbing.
Pulling myself over the brow of the rock, I shuffle into the dark with my torch. Bats narrowly miss our heads and red crabs hurry from our feet. As I delve deeper into the cave, it becomes more confined and I feel less at ease, and decide to head back to the rainforest.
We loop back towards Sisivi, and after three hours we are rewarded with a swim at Rauvereaka Falls, a lush, forest-covered waterfall that feeds a deep inviting pool. Feeling invigorated, we amble back to the village.
But the most impressive waterfall is still to come, on day three. After an easy three-hour walk, we’re welcomed to the village of Togarao, and soon taken to the nearby waterfall. Standing at the base, thick green moss coats the cliffs and impenetrable thickets of ferns surround the river, as torrents of water crash into it. But the real experience is standing at the top.
We re-approach the river from higher ground and crawl along the riverbank, clinging to bushes and fallen trees for balance. With a leap from the bank, we’re out onto the enormous boulders that span the river and create the brink of the 70-metre-high fall. Tentatively shuffling as close to the edge of the boulders as we dare, we peer over the drop-off.
Back at Togarao, we relax as night falls. Our guide pops his head around the door and asks “would you like to see Mount Bagana erupting”? In the pitch dark we watch a red glow appear in the sky – lava at the top of Bagana’s volcanic cone. We stand transfixed, squinting into the distance as the red morphs, disappears and reappears, time and time again.
The Sisivi village stay can be booked with Rotokas Ecotourism (rotokas.ecotourism@gmail.com). A three-night stay, including transport to/from Buka or Arawa, accommodation, tour guide, and meals starts at PGK330 a person, depending on group size. —ADAM CONSTANZA
Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Buka six times a week and once a week to Arawa. See airniugini.com.pg.