A yen for snow
A ski trip to Japan with fluffy powder and hot springs
AsI stop my skis on the exposed ridgetop, a startling blue sky threatens to engulf me. On both sides, trees cling to steep drop-offs, almost groaning under the weight of fresh snow.
Before me, a ski run aptly named ‘Skyline’ beckons. Mid-way down, I lean into a left turn and descend to the top of a pristine valley. Undisturbed snow glitters – I am the first to ski here today. Exhilarated, I plunge through untouched powder, down the silent slope, trees sliding by in a blur. Arriving in the village below, I’m high on adrenaline and under my balaclava, I’m grinning from ear to ear.
I’m in the traditional Japanese village of Nozawa Onsen, a town of around 4000 people, 260 kilometres north-west of Tokyo. All types of skier are catered for here, with an elevation of 1650 metres and around 50 kilometres of trails, the longest of which is 10 kilometres.
Snowboarders test their skills in the two-kilometre snow park including a box, rail, half-pipe and wave. Aside from great skiing, Nozawa Onsen offers unique and cultural experiences.
BULLET TRAIN
The most exciting way to arrive in Nozawa Onsen is by bullet train ( Shinkansen) from Tokyo. But before leaving Tokyo Station, many travellers have only one thing on their mind: ekibens. These are bento box meals, specifically packaged as train munchies, with each station offering regional specialities. My favourite is in a box styled as a mini bullet train.
While I eat, the suburbs of Tokyo morph into rural countryside, and imposing, snow-capped Mount Fuji flies by at 320 kilometres per hour. In just one hour and 40 minutes, I’m pulling in to Iiyama Station.
I plunge through untouched powder, down the silent slope, trees sliding by in a blur.
TRADITIONAL RYOKAN
It’s a more sedate, 20-minute taxi ride from Iiyama station to Furusato Lodge, my ryokan, a traditional Japanese guesthouse.
The host family’s father greets me, smiling and bowing, pouring me a cup of homemade alcoholic sake straight from the pot on the wood-fired heater. The ryokan rooms are basic, but the futon mattress on the tatami mat floor proves more comfortable than it looks, and the shared bathroom is immaculately clean. The ryokan has its own natural spring water hot tubs known as onsens, one for men and one for women.
NAKED WITH LOCALS
The town has been famous for its hot springs since the eighth century. The village has 13 community owned, free onsens and many locals bathe here daily. Considerate tourists follow onsen etiquette, including removing shoes before walking on wooden decking and washing with soap before entering.
No clothing or swimwear is allowed. I’m prudish at first, but made to feel welcome by an elderly local, and through sign language, she demonstrates how to add cold water before easing in to the hot onsen.
Soon I’m happily soaking with other naked bathers, feeling tired muscles unwind.
LOCAL DELICACIES
Another tradition embraced here is food. Many restaurants offer just a few tables, specialising in one type of food. Fortissimo offers home cooking like crumbed pork tonkatsu, served beside the family’s piano. Osaka Tonkichi has
okonomiyaki, a savoury pancake featuring yam flour, cabbage, egg and pork belly or shrimp, topped with sweet brown sauce and Japanese mayonnaise.
At a stall in the main street, chilly tourists are warmed by steamed dumplings containing apple and cinnamon, red beans or spicy beef. Meanwhile, thirsty visitors kick snow off their boots at the Craft Room, charging up on great coffee or a sneaky craft beer.
SNOW MONKEYS
For a break from the slopes, take a half-day excursion to visit wild, fluffy snow monkeys in Jigokudani Monkey Park. Get the camera ready for the moment they plunge into their own hot water onsen, playing and grooming each other happily in the steamy water.