Food review

Tokyo’s Park Hyatt

After a few days exploring a wintry and bustling Tokyo at street level, it is a delightful contrast to ascend to level 40 of the tranquil and elegant Park Hyatt Tokyo, to dine at Kozue. This hotel was made famous by the iconic 2003 film Lost in

Translation. By night, the outlook and architecture of its Japanese fine-dining ( kaiseki) restaurant reminds you of the New York Grill (located 12 floors above) that features extensively in the film, while by day Mount Fuji is often visible in the distance.

Japanese restaurants tend to specialise in one kind of cuisine (such as sushi, tempura or ramen), but Kozue offers its mixed international and local clientele a more varied menu, including set/degustation options.

We opt for the a la carte option but start with assorted Japanese delicacies, featuring familiar and unfamiliar seasonal, local produce. So impressive is it in both presentation and taste that even this picky reviewer did not, could not, leave a morsel.

Next, the assorted sashimi and wagyu beef sirloin are exquisite, but beware that portions are on the small side.

Kozue is not just a great restaurant, but a magnificent all-round experience. Our polished yet friendly Englishspeaking waiter even gives us a tip on where to go next for a drink. It turns out to be such good advice that it makes returning to ground level all that much easier to swallow.

WHERE :

Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2, Nishishinjuku, Tokyo (located in the Shinjuku Park Tower)

PHONE :

+81 3 5323 3460

STYLE:

Japanese fine dining

TYPICAL PRICE:

Mains ¥3500

BYO:

No

our FAVOURI TE DIS H:

Wagyu beef

IN A WORD :

Celestial