PNG duo impresses at fashion show
Dusk Devi reports on Pacific Runway, where two PNG fashion designers showed their latest collections.
Pacific-origin designers showed off their creative excellence, cultural influence and flair at Pacific Runway in Australia late last year.
The key fashion event for designers from the Pacific is in its eighth year and was at Sydney’s Carriageworks. The show sold out almost as soon as tickets were released last year and has become a Sydney ‘must-do’ for the fashion industry and fashion lovers.
Two of the most popular designers of the 2019 show – Andrew (Dru) Douglas and Cathy Currey – hail from PNG.
Rabaul-born and New Zealand-based Douglas launched his first capsule collection*, Kolos, at Pacific Runway in 2017 and last year presented his second capsule collection, Aurua.
“I continued the themes from the first collection which encompassed ideas of comfort and security,” he says. “This collection, though, had an underlying vulnerability and felt a bit more freeing. I didn’t want to over think this collection, so it came together rather organically,” says Douglas.
“After showing for the first time two years ago at Pacific Runway I had more clarity and experience this time around. I knew how I wanted the models to be styled and what the music was going to be.
“The response and feedback to the collection after the show was great. I love how Pacific Runway is a celebration of people of colour for people of colour, there is nothing like it.”
Douglas works full-time for the Auckland City Mission, which is a charity that helps people in need. “Being a self-funded designer means having to work full-time and save up for Lumai (his fashion label). On my days off and after my day job I am trying to complete pre-orders. It’s a lot for one person but I’m grateful to have customers who understand my situation and don’t mind the wait.”
Douglas says storytelling compels him to design. “I have always loved the idea of being able to communicate ideas and stories through garments. Everything I create has intention and purpose behind it. My creative expression helps honour who I am and how I see myself in the world.
“After releasing the first capsule collection for Lumai I took a year off and had to redefine what success meant for me. After I did that, I was able to come back to Lumai with clarity and less pressure.”
Fashion labels have a responsibility to the planet, the environment and the people to be more responsible with the life cycle of the garments they create.
So what is success to him? “Success for me is having the resources, space and time to creatively express myself. If people connect with what I do with Lumai then that is an added bonus. My cultural heritage is inherent to Lumai’s success.”
Douglas works with natural fibres. Silks, cottons and linens are among his favourites to sew with. “I try and stick with natural fibres as much as I can and if I do use a synthetic it tends to be deadstock fabric.
“I have also, for the most part, eliminated the toiling process by incorporating technology into my design process. I now design, draft patterns and develop using software which creates minimal to no waste during the development phase.”
He says sustainability and ethical practices are important to the
Lumai ethos.
“Fashion labels have a responsibility to the planet, the environment and the people to be more responsible with the life cycle of the garments they create,” he says.
“Massive fast fashion giants are doing the most damage, so we need to put more pressure on these corporations.
I wanted to put the stories of our traditional dances and culture on to fabrics so that they can stay alive, and educate people outside of PNG about our ways, our life, and our culture.
“Being an emerging designer means you can make your own rules and not follow the norm of the established fashion cycle. At Lumai, for example, we only make to order, meaning we don’t have any excess stock on hand and only make what is needed. We buy deadstock fabric and only release a collection when we have something of value to say.”
Cathy Currey is originally from Manus Island and now lives in
Brisbane. In 2014, she started a small business called Kapilou Products, specialising in growing fresh, organic PNG and Pacific Islands food.
Currey is also a dressmaker and she branched out as a designer, launching her first collection in 2017 in Brisbane. Since then, she has also showcased a collection in PNG, in Brisbane for a second time, and now is a part of the Pacific Runway legend.
Currey’s Pacific Runway collection is called Summer Sih II. It’s a collaboration with Malolo Fabrics, designed by Jack and Margaret Fenton, which depicts traditional motifs from PNG and around the Pacific.
“Designing traditional costumes inspired me to create a vibrant everyday collection that can be worn by the young and the young at heart,” Currey says.
“I wanted to put the stories of our traditional dances and culture on to fabrics so that they can stay alive, and educate people outside of PNG about our ways, our life, and our culture.
I respect my strong PNG culture very much and wanted to show its beauty.”