Bulgarian, Hungarian foie gras makers feed new markets

MILEVO, BULGARIA — Every Christmas, foie gras producers in Bulgaria and Hungary are overwhelmed with overseas orders but while France remains their key client, the hunt for more lucrative markets is leading to Asia.

France is the top producer and consumer of the controversial delicacy. Foie gras is fundamental to a traditional Gallic Christmas dinner and France has made a habit of stocking up its own inventories with cheaper versions from Bulgaria and Hungary.

At Bulgaria’s largest factory near the southern village of Milevo, dozens of women nimbly sort, clean, devein, and pack hundreds of kilos of duck livers that have come straight from the slaughterhouse.

Other workers cook and can glazed duck confit.

Virtually unknown at local Christmas dinner tables, the bulk of Volex’s production will go to France.

The labels of big French brands are placed directly on the jars before they even leave the factories, although the country of origin is also indicated.

This year, Bulgaria and Hungary estimate that sales in newer markets could shoot up by around 15% as French exports outside the EU have been hit by repeated bird flu scares.

“If 10 years ago we sold 100% of our produce to France, now this share is about 80%,” Volex factory owner Plamen Chelebiev told AFP.

DIVERSIFYING MARKETS

For the past four years, his sales have been increasing in Switzerland and Japan, and more recently also in Vietnam and Thailand. “In these markets we sell our products under our own brand names and at much higher prices, which makes it more interesting for us,” Chelebiev said.

But Volex is also doing well inside the EU. In Spain and Belgium, “we’re now selling our products without passing via France,” Chelebiev added.