Partying like it’s 1997:
Special Royal Oak debuts in Manila
A CUBAN-themed party marked the June 1 Manila arrival of special Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph pieces, all of which fresh renditions of a timepiece classic that first came out in 1997.
Audemars Piguet’s 1997 chronograph, of course, was itself an offshoot of the original Royal Oak of 1972 — regarded as one of the best works of legendary watch designer Gerald Genta, and as the definitive steel luxury sport watch.
The chronograph version of 1997 expanded the Royal Oak’s appeal through its added complication even while retaining the line’s 39-millimeter case size. In 2012, the Royal Oak Chronograph grew to 41 millimeters, and it’s this dimension which the latest model continues to wear.
Introduced in January at SIHH — the haute horlogerie spectacle held in Geneva, Switzerland, every year since 1991 — the new Royal Oak Chronograph that marks the line’s 20th anniversary comes in seven regular versions.
Three of these are rendered in stainless steel and four are dressed up in pink gold. Another boutiqueonly version is finished in brushed titanium and platinum. Regardless of material, all the pieces are defined by a mix of classic and contemporary elements.
Besides the case, remaining unchanged are the model’s signature bracelet (although the pink gold versions can be fitted with blue or brown alligator- leather straps) and movement, which is the caliber 2385. This externally sourced, self-winding, column wheel ticker has been designed as a chronograph from the get-go; not one on which a chronograph function merely piggybacks. This makes the movement thin, in the process allowing the Royal Oak to stay svelte and, as a result, classically styled.
Meanwhile, new to the 2017 pieces are their dials, which are now dual-tone rather than monochromatic. While retaining the “tapisserie” pattern with which the Royal Oak has been identified, the use of two colors on the dial is a significant move as, in the past, only limited-edition Royal Oak chronographs flaunted such treatment. The latest watches have dials finished in blue, brown, black and gray, with contrastingcolor sub-registers in blue, gold or silver. A version with black sub-registers set against a white dial is available as well.
Also updated in the new Royal Oak Chronograph are the sub- registers at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, which, along with their markers, have grown, aiding in legibility. To accommodate this bigger pair of sub-registers, the third one for the sub- seconds readout has shrunk slightly. The dial’s hour markers have become wider but shorter, allowing for a broader strip on which additional luminescent coating can be added, improving low- light readability.
Rounding out the changes are the marginally larger “AP” monogram placed just below the 12 o’clock marker, and the position of the date window. While still located in between the 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock markers, it has moved lower toward the latter so it could clear the larger sub-register residing just above it.
Twenty years later ( and 45 since Mr. Genta’s original twohand version), it’s clear the Royal Oak Chronograph is not about to lose its good looks. And that’s an excellent reason to party.