A scrumptious taste of Thai cuisine from the streets
WHILE Bangkok has a well-established reputation in upscale cuisine, it is most popular for its Chinatown/ street food district, considered among the best such pockets in the world. Even for a capital whose economy ranks as the sixth among Asia’s richest cities, some of its best meals are found outside the realm of fine dining.
The Thai street food culture is predominantly a reflection of the country’s household cooking tradition, and “homeyness” remains an integral part of its charm. In the Philippines, a restaurant called Siam Sukh Jai Thai Home Cooking in S Maison, Pasay City, seeks to serve food as the owners experienced it in Bangkok—in homes and streets.
Digs Dimagiba, who was once country director for Facebook in the Philippines, cofounded the restaurant with his wife, Des. Both lived in Thailand from 2000 to early 2010s. “When we finally returned to Manila in 2014, we longed to have the Thai food that we came to love, and we wanted to share it to Filipinos,” said Digs, who admitted Siam Sukh Jai Thai started out as a passion project than a business venture. The restaurant’s menu is a mix of familiar Thai favorites like Pad Thai Noodles, Thai Green Curry and Tom Yum Goong soup, as well as relatively low-profile comfort food like the Thai Omelette and Papaya Salad. Thai food is widely known for its strong flavors, and one key component that Digs and Des invest in when it comes to flavor is heat. “We try to balance everything. Essentially, a Thai dish that is spicy should be served spicy, otherwise it will lose some of its authenticity. [Diners] wouldn’t experience it the way it should be experienced,” said Digs.
Gaeng Khiao Waan Moo, or Thai green curry, packs a lot of heat with a just a tiny hint sweetness. It uses green herbs for color and coconut milk to bring the dish together. Meanwhile, Tom Yum Goong brings in another level of heat even at the mildest spice level. This hot-and-sour shrimp soup is spiced with galangal, kaffir lime leaves and chilis.
For the most part, there are many traditional Thai dishes that aren’t spicy as there are a lot of regional variations.
The Som Trap Goop served in the restaurant, for one, is a twist on the classic green papaya salad that is perfect for those looking for a more timid flavor. There’s also the crispy Thai omelet that resembles our okoy and the Vietnamese banh xeo. This omelet is made of scrambled eggs, flavored with seasoned minced pork and fish sauce. The Pad Thai or stir-fried rice noodle dish finds the middle ground between sweet and savory, and is served with nuts and chili powder on the side so you can season it to your preference.
“All our dishes are made with the spirit of Thai home cooking. We use only the freshest ingredients possible, and we import from Thailand the natural herbs and spices that allow us to be true to the taste [of authentic Thai food],” said Des. She added that every order is cooked fresh and comes without MSG or artificial flavors. They flew in a Thai chef to head the preparations of the dishes.
“When you experience Thai cooking in a hotel or someplace that’s extremely polished, the food will, of course, be very well-polished,” said Digs, “[Household and street food cuisine] may not be as perfect...but it’s those little quirks tucked in the dishes here and there that tickle your palate.”
■ Siam Sukh Jai Thai Home Cooking is at S Maison, Marina Way, Mall of Asia Complex, Pasay City. For details, call 821-6141.