The woman behind the famous Ilocos empanada, the favorite of ‘Apo’ Ferdie
FOR 64 years, Gloria Aduana Cocson, or Manang Glory to her townmates in Batac, has been selling Ilocos empanada. No less than then President Ferdinand Marcos Sr. would buy from her whenever he visited his hometown.
Batac has always been known for the famous comfort food. It was believed to have originated in that town. But for generations, the usual empanada in Batac merely had a rice wrapper stuffed with shredded green papaya and mongo sprouts. In Vigan, the empanada had cabbage for its filling.
In 1960, Cocson innovated the traditional recipe when she began making her own “Glory’s empanada” after working as an assistant of her sister-in-law for two years in her empanada business.
She added garlic longganisa and egg in her so-called “secret recipe.” Soon, her empanada. which she sells outside the Roman Catholic Church grounds at the town center and in the nearby public market, became famous.
“Even the president’s children would buy from me,” she said. The president’s eldest daughter, now senator Imee Marcos, was even a regular customer when she was governor of the province.
In 2000 , she was asked to showcase the art of empanada making in the Philippine International Convention Center by President Ferdinand Marcos Jr., who was then Ilocos Norte governor.
“Empanada is a complete food,” she said, noting how she had to serve customers for breakfast, lunch and dinner in her new stall at the food court which Mayor Jesus Nalupta built across the church to showcase Batac cuisine, from her empanada to the famous Miki noodles.
Her two daughters also opened their own empanada stalls, but they passed away. Now, she has three stalls to manage.
Looking back, Cocson, now 83, said had always felt lucky because of her empanada business. She was able to visit her two sisters who live in London and Australia. She also toured Hong Kong, which was in her bucket list.
Today, Manang Glory continues to inspire her townmates who are proud of her creative talent and her knack for business. She still prepares the empanada that she offers in her old stall every day. She has also started a separate serving of her home-made longganisa which she uses for her fillings.