MADAGASCAR, OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Back in the time when dinosaurs ruled, it broke free from the super continent of Gondwana, and is presently only 250 miles away from the eastern coast of Africa. The only wild animals that survived are the lemur and its predator, the tree-climbing cat/ dog-like animal called the fosa.
I had the opportunity to spend 14 days of my holiday in this undiscovered country, and had the most intense and rewarding experience! Arriving in its hilly capital Antananarivo, I headed on to the different sites, and ended my trip visiting the factories (more of workshops) of Antsirabe and the farming village of Betafo. Saint Marie Island
Between the months of July to September, humpback whales come to Madagascar’s side of the Indian Ocean for mating and breeding before they migrate to Antarctica. I was most excited about the whale safari. In fact, I chose coming to Saint Marie, rather than the more popular Nosy Be Island, because it is less crowded and it was whale watching season. To my surprise, we also got to see dolphins during our boat ride to the whales!
The small Malagasy island itself was a discovery. Aside from the Pirate Cemetery (as it was once a pirate island), it has the most breathtaking turquoise waters to offer in Île aux Nattes, amazing mangrove forest in Baje D’Ankoalabe, and the most fascinating view of the Indian Ocean at Point Albrand. I must say, food was delicious, too. The small restaurants serve fresh seafood, straight from the ocean! Andasibe National Park
This is where I started my safari in Madagascar. There are four circuit options at the Andasibe National Park, guests choose the route depending on their level of fitness. Of course, the shorter route you choose, the lesser species of lemurs you will see. I chose the four-hour hike, and saw three out of four species of lemurs, since the other species, the bamboo lemurs, are small and difficult to find. Hiking the Andasibe National Park wasn’t difficult at all. The rainforest was cool, not muddy and flat, the altitude isn’t high, and there aren’t any stinging nettles. What the Andasibe National Park is known for is the biggest specie of lemurs called the Indri Indri. Throughout the hike, we spotted different species and families of lemurs grooming and having breakfast, swinging from one tree to another, and even hear the Indri Indri “sing!” Vakona and Pereyra Reserves
After my morning hike at the Andasibe rainforest, we went right next to Vakona Reserve (just outside the Andasibe National Park) to see lemurs and some reptiles up close. Since it is privately owned and they feed the lemurs, the lemurs are easier to find and are not afraid of humans. I was caught off guard by the brown lemurs jumping from my behind, and licking my forehead! Their hands and feet are gentle, though. Indeed, they are the friendliest of creatures. We ended the day with a night walk to search for nocturnal lemurs.
The following day, we went to the Peyrieras Reserve. The Peyrieras Reserve houses different species of reptiles, including chameleons, geckos, frogs, snakes, crocodiles, and turtles. It’s a small reserve and viewing can be finished very quickly, but I ended up staying for almost two hours taking photos of the different species of chameleons! Baobab Alley
The famous Baobab tree is the national symbol of Madagascar. These gigantic trees (which can reach up to 100 feet tall) are important to the Malagasies as they believe that the trees hold mythical properties, and spirits of the dead live in the branches. There are a lot of Baobabs of different species, sizes, and ages across Madagascar, but the Alley of the Baobabs in Morondava is the only place where a number of 300year old baobabs are in queue. It was a truly amazing experience to drive and walk through, and enjoy the incredibly beautiful golden African sunset at the Alley of Baobabs.
We were also able to visit two special baobabs in Morondava, the Sacred Baobab and the Baobab Amoureux. Malagasies are superstitious, and they believe that the Sacred Baobab once helped the king and his army from invaders. Locals would require you to remove your shoes coming near the Sacred Baobab. While on the other hand, the Baobab Amoureux is two Adansoniaza trees (baobab specie) twisted together. Legend has it that there were two young lovers wanting to be together, but both their parents have already arranged their marriage with other partners. They prayed to the gods, and so the two became inseparable from each other for eternity, in the form of baobabs. Tsingy de Bemaha National Park
Hiking the intimidating Tsingy de Bemaha was an adventure. The Tsingy is a limestone forest with very few trees. Among four circuits, the most popular ones are the Big and Small Tsingy. I did the Big Tsingy very early in the morning to avoid the afternoon heat. Although the distance at three kilometers and altitude at 100m aren’t as much, it was very challenging to hike on bizarre limestone pinnacles! After all, it was named “Tsingy” eons ago when Madagascar was landlocked with Mozambique because villagers were walking on their toes in the forest. To get to the two top view points and the bridge, my guide and I had to go through narrow and steep paths, and deep and dark caves. We had to wear harnesses, and attach the hooks/locks to the cables of the areas where it was much steeper. It wasn’t the easiest to hike, but the fascinating top view of the entire landscape was worth the effort! We finished the circuit in 3.5 hours, rather than the usual four. The good weather definitely helped a lot; we were lucky enough to hike on a cloudy day.
Unlike the Big Tsingy, the Small Tsingy is less dry because it has plants and trees, and it is beside a river. I did the Small Tsingy in the afternoon, on the same day as the Big Tsingy. The Small Tsingy is indeed much easier to hike. It is much lower and there weren’t any caves that it took us only an hour to finish the site! Tourists who are afraid of heights or are claustrophobic take on the Small Tsingy first, to see if they can do the Big Tsingy. Kirindy Forest
The Kirindy Forest, a private reserve for researchers and tourists, was a unique experience. The camp is situated in the middle of the forest, so resources are very limited. The bungalow was very basic, it only had a bed (no other furniture), and a private bathroom. There were no hot water, and no network signal (no Wi-Fi). What’s so special about the Kirindy Forest, though, was having the animals come up to the camp. I had some lemurs come right outside my bungalow! The elusive fosas visit the camp, too, looking for lemurs and chickens to eat! Walks (in the forest) are done in the morning and at night to spot for lemurs, birds, and rats.
Like any other foreign tourists who went to Madagascar, I closed my eyes and threw a dart on the map on where to spend my holiday. Little has been shared about the country, and it’s not the easiest destination to go to. It’s rougher than your typical African safari, but its natural and cultural uniqueness has no parallel. Its idyllic beaches, incredible rainforests, and amazing wildlife have so much to offer. Malagasies are the friendliest, as well. I may not recommend travelling with kids, but I would definitely recommend it to adventure seekers and experienced travelers.