have the ladies 'gown' too far?
In 2014, the Catholic Bishops’ Conference of the Philippines (CBCP) issued this endorsement letter to the Filipino Heritage Festival Inc. (FHFI) relating to the Santacruzan.
“This permanent committee, highly recommends, therefore, the initiatives of FHFI, in provoking the religious sensitivity of the Filipino, especially the youth, by proposing the original meaning, purpose, and fruits of the traditional Flores De Mayo or Santacruzan.”
FHFI president Armita B. Rufino said that, perhaps, the council also observed how commercial interests have seemingly overwhelmed the religious character of some Santacruzan practices, especially when it comes to the gowns the sagalas wear at the parade.
Apparently, she said, the procession has become merely “a fashion show;” that is, a parade of beautiful ladies who spend so much money to dress elegantly for display.
“In reality, the Church didn’t cite a requirement for those who will participate in the occasion. They don’t need to be so beautiful, they don’t need to wear fancy gowns. This is not about extravagant
display or being most beautiful,” she said.
“Santacruzan is not all about the jewelry nor the expensive costumes. It is about the reynas being the epitome of humility and strength. We should learn to draw inspiration from the various roles many godly
women played in the history of our Christianity.”
The main participants in this parade – 38 in total – wear attires that approximate scriptural vestures. The ladies are called sagalas or reynas.
“Every queen has her own cultural resonance. They carry certain things to symbolize or represent the roles they are into,” Rufino said.
As example, the Reyna Banderada carries a yellow triangular flag. She represents the coming of Christianity to the Philippines when the Spaniards landed in Homonhon in the Visayan Island.
As for Reyna Fe, she personifies Faith, the first of the theological virtues. She carries a cross. Yet another example: Reyna Esperanza personifies Hope. She carries an anchor.
How high?
But, are the gowns really, obscenely expensive?
Manila Bulletin asked designers from around the country who’ve made gowns for those who join the sagala. The designers are Kris Arthur J. Obcena from National Capital Region, Frederick T. Policarpio from Luzon, Steve Genzola from Visayas, and Felizardo Parreno from Mindanao.
They said that at minimum, a modestly-designed gown made of tulle, gazar and bits of beads and crystals costs about R15,000. Of course, if the ladies go to the more famous designers for their gowns, then, heavens, the price goes up, up.
“It can’t be just a simple gown for the Santacruzan. To begin with, there has to be flowers on the gown being the feast of all flowers. So, the flowers we use are textile manipulated to look like flowers. We also use beads, glitters to embellish the dress,” said Felizardo in Filipino.
Sometimes, materials are imported from other parts of the world. Or these are so intricately made that the gown becomes almost like art that you want to just frame and hang on the wall than wear it.
A fine example of this is the gown that Mrs. Universe South Asia 2017 Joyce Peñas Pilarsky wore as Queen Helena of the Santacruzan of the 60th anniversary of Sta. Rita de Cascia Parish, Philam Homes, Quezon City last year. She walked in a dramatic self-designed gown with a long canvas train rendered in textile and acrylic paint, then embellished with beads upon beads and appliques upon appliques of flora and finished by crown glitter.
During the entire procession, a choir continuously chanted “Dios Te Salve (Hail Mary).” Just pure wow.
Then again, if that’s all too much for you, you can always rent a gown. The designers agreed that if it’s fairly new (meaning no one has worn it), the price tag could reach up to R10,000.
A client must give a designer at least two weeks for a simple gown to be made, said Felizardo. Even then that's already “rushed” work.
Aside from the beauty of the creation and its appropriateness to the occasion, there are practical considerations in making the gown.
“Other designers forget that the weight of the gown matters. Hindi naman kasi designer ang nagsusuot, kaya hindi nila alam kung gaano kabigat, gaano kakati. A designer must ensure that the gown is both beautiful and comfortable to wear,” Felizardo said.
Asked what they think about concerns that the Santacruzan has lost its essence no thanks to those (shudder) glittering gowns, Frederick and Felizardo said that perhaps it can’t be helped given human nature.
Indeed, though the Santacruzan is primarily religious activity, it also serves as a platform for fashion designers to showcase their works, and for the ladies to look their best while all eyes are on them for at least a couple of hours.
If it’s a sin, there’s always confession later... right? (With reports from Christelle Perez, Stephanie Bernardino and Regina Mae Parungao)
Santacruzan is not all about the jewelry nor the expensive costumes. It is about the reynas being the epitome of humility and strength. We should learn to draw inspiration from the various roles many godly women played in the history of our Christianity.
— FHFI president Armita B. Rufino