Manila Bulletin

Folk stories and merrymakin­g in Iloilo’s Dinagyang

- Text and photo by TARA YAP

Amidst a sea of humanity, thunderous drumbeats echo all over downtown Iloilo City to jumpstart the focal celebratio­n. The climax rushes in when soot-painted performers wearing vibrant costumes energetica­lly execute their warrior-like performanc­es. The competing groups depict what only the pigment of the imaginatio­n can turn into a highly plausible scenario: The conversion of the native Ati tribe into Christiani­ty.

This is what unfolds annually on the fourth Sunday of January, when the Dinagyang transforms Iloilo City from an urban jungle into a mega street party.

As a festival, the Dinagyang traces its roots in 1967 when an Augustinia­n priest from Cebu gave a replica image of the Santo Niño (Holy Child Jesus) to a fellow Augustinia­n priest in Iloilo as a birthday gift. Since then, a novena mass was held every Friday at the San Jose Parish Church.

By 1969, a competitio­n was organized. It is akin to the popular Ati-Atihan Festival of Kalibo town in Aklan province, which is a four-hour drive northwest of Iloilo City. Back in those days, the Dinagyang was known as “Iloilo Ati-Atihan.”

But “Dinagyang” became a household name almost a decade later when a radio broadcaste­r insisted using a local to distinguis­h the festival from the wellknown Ati-Atihan of Kalibo. With its root word of “dagyang,” it means “merrymakin­g” in the local dialect of Hiligaynon.

As a theatrical performanc­e, the Dinagyang is anchored on a folkloric story. It begins with the Barter of Panay, the story of how 10 Bornean datus and their families fled a tyrannical ruler in Borneo early in the 13th century and sailed towards the island of Panay. When they arrived, the Borneans bargained with the native Atis to occupy the lowlands. To celebrate the barter, the Borneans painted their bodies with soot and danced with the Atis.

But what is baffling about the theatrical street performanc­e is when the soot-painted warriors, who are depicting the native Atis, hoist up an image of the Holy Child of Jesus while chanting with great conviction: “Viva, Señor Santo Niño!” The Spaniards only came to Philippine shores during the 16th century.

Setting aside historical inaccuraci­es, the Dinagyang is a much-awaited annual event that draws both Ilonggos and visitors. After all, everyword one — regardless of social status — converge to celebrate until the wee hours of the morning.

Over the years, the Dinagyang has evolved into a multidimen­sional weekend celebratio­n with fireworks shows, musical concerts, food festivals, exhibits, and lighted float parade.

The Dinagyang has managed to define the changing landscape of Iloilo as well as its people. Foremost, it fosters unity among the government, the religious sector as well as the private sector. It also showcases the talents of the people of Iloilo and boosts its local economy. More importantl­y, the Dinagyang promotes Iloilo in a holistic manner.

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