THE FILIPINO GIN[IUS] Arthur Olarte puts the Filipino wine and spirits industry on the world stage with his amazing creations
Imet or Art back in 2010, a year after he began winemaking and I was a new columnist for The Manila Bulletin Lifestyle’s food section. He would send me some of his wines made from Philippine fruits, these drinks he produced in his garage. Those days, it was very difficult for his vinos to be tried and recognized as grape wines coming from different countries were battling it out in an arena of heavy global marketing. The Philippine wine scene was just opening up to the variants and appellations the world had to offer. I was totally smitten by the passion of this man, as we would spend hours on the phone talking about fun fermentation. I was brewing beer and making mead at the time. I gave him some piece of friendly advice, that he could break into the market by catering to the European custom of having a digestif, schnapps, or an eau de vie (fruit alcohol) at the end of every meal with some fruits totally foreign and exotic to the Philippines.
I did not see Art for a good 10 years and when I finally bumped into him, he mentioned that he was still doing his hobby. I was glad that his passion did not die.
He is relentless with his craft exhibitions, expos, events, and wine tastings that has anything to do with fermentation—a hobby has turned into some unquenchable obsession.
Art’s wines broke ground in 2016, but it was in 2018 that his wines took two silvers and one gold in the berry fruit category of the Winemaker’s International Competition in Vermont and San Diego, California, under his label called Vino Arsan, derived from
Arthur Olarte
the portmanteau of his and his wife Susan’s names. He bagged the award for his Malibug (Mango, Lipote, and Bugnay fruits) and his Libug (Lipote and Bugnay fruit). These wines in all the competitions they entered bested more than 2,000 entries, almost 3,000 in some competitions.
Last June, Art’s fruit brandy under his Lolo Art line of spirits took silver at the International Spirits Competition in Los Angeles. His lone entry bested over 2,000 brands. Marnier as he calls it is a 70 proof brandy distilled from cahel or a local green orange. The resulting spirit is smooth, warm but not hot, creamy on the palate, and with subtle orange popsicle notes on the finish. This brandy can stand up to any after-dinner drink in those liqueur carts of fancy establishments.
Another spirit I tried under Lolo Art is the gin. Art’s expertise in fermentation has led him to a step up, which is distillation. Being a small batch and artisanal maker, he is not comfortable with buying alcohol from other sources and prefers that distillation be done under his supervision and system.
Lolo Art’s Gin was an exciting revelation to me. I emphasize that his drinks can hold their own against marks I prefer in my gin-drinking such as Roku, Hendrick’s, and Nordes, which have a certain perfume to them.
Lolo Art’s Gin is so smooth one does not feel the 80 proof alcohol in a tonic, but just the herbal and perfumey notes such as lavender, dried flowers, and herbs without losing the juniper character. For the gin and tonic, I would recommend a sliver of cucumber with a slice of the rind of green dalanghita or pomelo. In a different mood, I’ll probably make a martini (shaken not stirred a la James Bond), but also drop in a long slice of cucumber peel and an equally long sliver of pomelo rind. This gin is world class and, since it’s very much in vogue, Filipinos would definitely feel proud of it.
Art also made me try Bigpit (Bignay and Pittaya), a fortified port-style wine, which I believe he should enter in the competition. At 16 percent ABV, this wine fills the mouth, reminding me of jammy santol preserves. I love the maderized character reminiscent of dried Asian and Western fruits, a good controlled acidity that would be perfect with certain types of chocolate, and some nutty or spicy cigars.
Lastly, I tried a corn whiskey made by Art during his last smokehouse expo where he exhibited some innovative Philippine fruit vinegar he also creates. It was a little underaged and was still hot on the palate and throat. But again knowing this man’s genius, he is going to be reaping another set of medals soon and he will be putting the Philippines on the World Spirits map.
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