Manila Bulletin

THE MOTHER SAUCE OF FRENCH COOKING

What you need to know about homemade mayonnaise

- BY SOL VANZI

In these days of relief packs and limited shopping opportunit­ies, many miss the little things that make simple food exceptiona­l. Like mayonnaise, which is never included in ECQ food rations.

Weep no more. Mayonnaise takes only a few minutes to make following simple steps. It has a silkiness and flavor that cannot be matched. Your family and friends will never want to buy commercial mayo again.

Homemade mayonnaise involves the science of turning a mixture of liquids into a thick emulsion. The sauce began in 18th century France, but it was first commercial­ized in New York City around 1912.

Considered a mother sauce in French cooking, mayonnaise is the basis for other popular dressings. The Belgians, the British, and other Europeans put it on fries. Americans like to use mayo on sandwiches and savory salads. Filipinos slather mayo on whole poached fish.

EASY AND QUICK

There are two main reasons for making your own mayonnaise– freshness and flavor. Homemade mayonnaise is fast and easy to make in a blender or food processor. It takes less than five minutes to make.

Servings: 2 to 2 1/4 cups

Ingredient­s:

• 2 egg yolks (room temperatur­e)

• 1 whole egg (room temperatur­e)

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• 1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard, 1/2 teaspoon salt, pinch white pepper

• 2 cups vegetable oil or pure olive oil (or a mixture)

Instructio­ns:

1. Put the egg yolks, whole egg, lemon juice, mustard, salt, and white pepper in the work bowl of the food processor or blender. Process for 10 seconds or more, until creamy.

2. With the food processor or blender running continuous­ly, pour in the oil very slowly in small amounts at first to start the emulsion process. Add 10 to 15 percent of the oil at this time. Wait about 30 second between additions.

3. When the mixture has definitely thickened, you may add the oil in a thin stream. Do not stop the machine at this point, but cease pouring every few seconds to be sure the oil is being absorbed.

4. Continue until the remaining 1 1/2 cups of oil are incorporat­ed

5. Stop the machine and check the mayonnaise for taste and consistenc­y. Adjust the seasonings and, if the mayonnaise is very thick, process in additional drops of lemon juice or warm water to thin.

6. Transfer the finished mayonnaise to a jar and store in the refrigerat­or. If not using right away, cover and refrigerat­e. The sauce will keep for a week.

Tips:

• Use the freshest eggs you can get. As an egg ages, lecithin, a protein that acts as the central emulsifyin­g agent, breaks down and the power of the egg yolk to stabilize the mayonnaise weakens.

• Some people like to use vinegar in place of lemon juice.

• For a basic mayonnaise, use an oil with a mild flavor that will not overpower the other ingredient­s.

• All the ingredient­s must be at room temperatur­e.

• Never use aluminum bowls or saucepans to prepare mayonnaise, as they will turn the mayonnaise gray. Stainless steel, enameled, plastic (food processor), or glass may be used.

• Since homemade mayonnaise has fresh eggs in it, the mayonnaise should not be left at room temperatur­e for more than a couple hours, as food poisoning is always a concern.

• If mayonnaise breaks at any point, it can be brought back together by beating the broken mixture bit by bit into a fresh egg yolk.

• For variations, add pimento, anchovies, capers, grated garlic, or chopped herbs.

Homemade mayonnaise involves the science of turning a mixture of liquids into a thick emulsion. The sauce began in 18th century France, but it was first commercial­ized in New York City around 1912.

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