Majestic Mayoyao, Ifugao
A mountain retreat for the unhurried
MAYOYAO, Ifugao, is not an easy place to visit. Located 381 kilometers north of Manila in the heart of the Cordillera, and with no direct transportation available, most tourists simply stop in Banaue or Sagada to claim that they have explored the highlands of the north. But for intrepid travelers and the unhurried, Mayoyao offers a wonderful experience of exploring its hidden attractions, meeting its people, and learning more about its heritage and culture.
It boasts one of the five rice terraces of the Philippines included in the list of Unesco World Heritage sites, the most extensive among the five. It has a mountain peak that challenges climbers to traverse the hidden villages of Ifugao and Mountain Province. Mayoyao also features several waterfalls with refreshing cool water and mountain parks that afford breathtaking views of the terraces.
The municipality recently introduced community-based tourism projects that allow visitors to experience and learn more about its crafts like weaving, rice wine making, and basket making, its culture and traditions like playing the gong, its unique dance rituals, its “hidhud” chants, and its unique mountain cuisine.
How to reach Mayoyao
The quickest way is to drive north via North Luzon Expressway, then Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway, enter Central Luzon Link Expressway and exit from San Jose. From there, drive through Dalton Pass then continue to Solano before turning left to Balabag to enter Ifugao Province. Continue to drive to Banaue, then turn right to reach Mayoyao, which is about 42 kilometers east of Banaue. Total driving time is between 10 to 12 hours.
Another alternative is via Ramon, Isabela. The newly cemented 60-kilometer mountain road offers a scenic drive through the upper Magat River and the cornfields of Alfonso Lista.
To reach via public transport, take any bus going to Cagayan Province, alight in Santiago City, then from there take another bus or a van going to Mayoyao. Travel time from Santiago City is about four hours.
Another alternative is to take a bus going to Lagawe, and then take another bus bound for Mayoyao that usually leaves around 3 p.m. There are also several vans that leave for Mayoyao in the afternoon.
Experience the natural wonders of Mayoyao
When exploring Mayoyao, it is best to coordinate with the local tourism office (located in front of the plaza) before visiting any of the attractions. They charge a minimum fee of P50 for entrance and environmental fees, and they can recommend a knowledgeable local guide to accompany you during the visit.
A guide is a must if you wish to visit one of the many rice terraces of Mayoyao. The trek usually starts from the tourism office and goes down to the villages passing through rice terraces connected through concrete paths built on top of the centuries-old stone walls, passing through traditional “bale” (houses) and “alang” (granaries). The trek also allows visitors to see the traditional Mayoyao houses, built using narra wood, and with no nails, with its three-level design that separates family activities for socializing (ground) level, sleeping (second level), and storage (upper level). Tombs of the deceased relatives are usually found next to the houses, but for the town’s ancient warriors and elites, they are buried in Apfo’or burial tombs, igloo-type ancient mausoleums.
There are also several waterfalls like Tenogtog, A’pfaw Mahencha, Muntuytuy-ub, and Mun-alajah whose refreshing cool waters are a perfect place to relax after trekking the rice terraces. Mayoyao is also the backdoor entry to Mount Amuyao, at 2,702 meters above sea level (MASL), the fourth highest mountain in Luzon. The trail from Mayoyao via Amuyao traverses to either Batad (Ifugao) or Barlig (Mountain Province).
Immerse in its culture and traditions
A trek to the village of Banhal allows visitors to learn about Mayoyao’s handloom tradition, as well as basket making using rattan. The locals are also happy to teach visitors how to make rice wine using ancient fermentation methods, and to try their strong but sweet rice wine, or try the “moma” (betel nut chewing).
Visitors are also welcome to experience their ritual dances usually performed to honor guests or during occasions like planting and harvests, or during weddings. During gatherings, the women usually sing the “hudhud,” the chanting about ancestral heroes, beliefs, and traditional practices of the Ifugao, which is now included in Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Staying in traditional Mayoyao houses can be arranged through the tourism office. There are also affordable homestays and hostels like Mayoyao Hostel, Helen’s Guest House, Mayoyao View Inn, and Jean’s Place for those who wish to stay for several days.
Mayoyao is a haven for those who wish to try its unique mountain food offerings. Sauteed Pekhoy (watercress), Amulang (ginisang gabi), Orcheh (pigeon peas), boiled kamote (sweet potato), red rice cake, and Mayoyao fries (fried gabi stalks) will delight vegetarian travelers. But Inlakhim (their version of pinikpikan) and fried pikaw (Japanese eel) will have these vegetarians shouting animal cruelty.
Mayoyao’s traditional way of eating is called Ma-orpfong where a family or a group of friends share a meal of rice, meat, and vegetables in one rattan plate while sitting on the floor. This tradition predates boodle fight for centuries and has been offered to welcome honored guests to partake in their humble offering, to listen to their stories, and to experience their culture.
This is Mayoyao. You savor every moment. Happy are the unhurried travelers who discover its hidden wonders.