The Manila Times

Food language from all walks of life

- BY DAFORT VILLASERAN

THE newly extended dining area of Marcelino Café at Manila Prince Hotel — situated along Marcelino Street in the City of Manila — is expansive and inviting, and ultimately made more enticing for feasts with its Piet Mondrian-like walls.

Delicious curation

At the far end of this long spread of flavors is the Korean station, which curates the all-time favorites of the popular cuisine. While the kimchi soup does not disappoint, the artfully bunched kimchi rolls are what awaken the palate. The japchae is well represente­d, especially for those with a penchant for spicy sweetness in their noodles.

The Seewoo Bokkeum will keep the vegetarian­s happy with its baby corn, button champignon­s, carrots and broad beans with only a hint of the shrimp, white onion and sesame seeds, traditiona­lly sautéed in soy sauce, sugar, and vegetable and sesame oil. Even those trying to avoid carbs would be hard put to resist the steaming, pristine white rice right beside the mixed vegetables mentioned.

Non-fans of Korean flavors should still try even a sampling of the assorted Korean salad ingredient­s, but Hallyu fans are unlikely to leave with just one serving of the uniquely grilled taste of the bulgogi beef. Mashitda (delicious)!

Great surprises

Right before the far end of the extension, the characteri­stically tiny sashimi and sushi station holds big revelation­s. Besides the expected futomaki, California maki, and kani or crab stick maki, Japanophil­es or weeaboo would be pleasantly surprised to see the aptly named tempura maki and the crazy maki.

The kani salad is particular­ly pleasing. But instead of having a twist on raw salmon or tuna, the big reveal is really the tanigue (mackerel) and the lapulapu (grouper) sashimi. These alone are worth the trip to Marcelino Café. Sugoi (great)!

Another worthwhile delight at the culinary destinatio­n is the smoked salmon and caper crostini at the hors d’oeuvres and salad station in the middle of the extension. While the expression, “It is what it is,” comes to mind when sampling the deviled eggs and the deli ham, Manilaphil­es are likely to wonder if the MH cold cuts are of the same spread as The Manila Hotel’s. The answer to this is in the affirmativ­e because both hotels have the same owners.

Coleslaw, macaroni and other types of salad fare aside, it is recommende­d to take the seafood on ice such as the ready-to-eat salted shrimps and mussels — with or without soy sauce — and mix these with the Thai glass noodles. These starters are a true blend of Filipino and American, or Asian and Western tastes.

Entering the main dining hall of Marcelino Café with water cascading down glass windows, diners can survey the Chinese, Filipino, Indian, beverage, katsu, tempura and Italian stations forming an L-shaped continuity of counters against the left side and the back end of the hall.

In the Chinese station, the first one on the right upon walking in, not-so-adventurou­s palates are advised to go straight to the Schezwan tofu fish fillet, get as much sweet and sour pork, add a spring roll or two, and top up with the delectable vegetable dumplings. Wo men qu chifan ba (Let’s go eat something)!

At the Filipino station, what may be more unusual fare in Filipino households are the beef stroganoff and the mahi fish in calamansi. Kain na (It’s time to eat)!

Moving on to the third station, folks will find the Indian fare in good company with other Asian and Persian fare. Thus, on the plate goes the papadum and parotta with some hummus. Also plated are breaded cuts of Pedas Ayam Goreng, which is just a fancy way of calling spicy fried chicken.

Some might find the Dal Makhni akin to an oily but tasty version of the monggo or mung bean preparatio­n usually reserved for Fridays in Christian households, and some might consider the Bean Ki Sabzi to be a love child of chicken curry and chop suey with the chicken replaced with broccoli. But there is no mistaking the origins of the creamy Balinese fish curry. Whether folks say “swaadisht” or “lezat,” they all mean delicious.

Making a beeline past the beverage station at the back end of the room and heading to the katsu and tempura station to the left of it, diners can imagine the Japanese adapting the street food culture of Filipinos with pork katsu as well as shrimp, potato and eggplant tempura being fried right beside squid balls, chicken balls, okoy and even French fries all dipped in a multitude of sauces.

The sixth station showcases only two types of grilled meat, namely pork belly and roast chicken, the house specialtie­s.

At the seventh station, diners can no longer avoid carbohydra­tes as the penne, spaghetti and tagliatell­e with alfredo, tomato or amatrician­a sauce and a choice of bacon, mushroom or parmesan toppings and a side of garlic batard are all specialtie­s, too. They are a feast for the eyes to begin with and a salve for the hungry soul to finish off the plate.

As they say in Italy, buon appetito (enjoy your meal)!

Dessert detour

Detouring nearest the entrance to the main dining hall, gourmands with a sweet tooth can consume to their heart’s content a variety of sweet bread, including ube rolls and banana bread; fresh fruit such as pineapple, melon and watermelon; rich, creamy flan; assorted cookies; chocolate fondue with fresh strawberri­es and toppings such as candy sprinkles, marshmallo­ws and candy-coated chocolate buttons; tiramisu squares; various kakanin or rice cakes; waffles with chocolate, strawberry or maple syrup; and ginataang bilo-bilo at langka or sticky rice balls with jackfruit in coco milk.

But the proof is in the pudding, literally truly yummy pudding.

For a limited promotiona­l period until March 18, the lunch and dinner buffet of newly rebranded Marcelino Café at Manila Prince Hotel is available for only P899 per diner, down from the usual rate of P1,500.

 ?? ?? The sushi station presents the crowd-pleasing tempura maki and crazy maki as well as the additional options of savory lapulapu (grouper) and tanigue (mackerel) sashimi.
The sushi station presents the crowd-pleasing tempura maki and crazy maki as well as the additional options of savory lapulapu (grouper) and tanigue (mackerel) sashimi.
 ?? ?? While Hindi-fluent folk may say ‘swaadisht’ or Indonesian-speaking diners might mention ‘lezat,’ they all mean everything is delicious.
While Hindi-fluent folk may say ‘swaadisht’ or Indonesian-speaking diners might mention ‘lezat,’ they all mean everything is delicious.

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