DESIGNER PROFILE

Cary Santiago looks to the East and creates a collection inspired by the captivating art of Geisha dolls

Cary Santiago brings us to the Land of the Rising Sun

When we talk about legends we can’t help but count the accolades they have received: from the recognition of award-giving bodies to the admiration of their peers. In the Philippines, there are many recognized masters, but only a handful have reached the heights that Cary Santiago has achieved. His name alone invokes the kind of lofty dreams only a few dare to dream.

From winning the grand prize at the Philippine Fashion and Design competition to his win for Outstanding International Fashion Designer at the China Fashion Awards in 2010, Santiago was the goto designer of Manila and Cebu’s most stylish, the kind of people looking for both conceptual couture and wearable art.

Just like any other virtuoso, Santiago started with a dream. His mother was a seamstress, so at a young age he was already exposed to beautiful fabrics; the skill to develop them into stunning clothes followed. At 18 years old, Santiago saved up to fly to Dubai and learn more about his passion for design and to expose himself to a different kind of world. Seeing his design potential, the House of Nicholas Jibran flew him to Beirut to work for the fashion house and learn more about haute couture. In 2005, Santiago flew back to the Philippines for a short visit and somehow found himself designing and creating for a few old clients. The visit extended until it became obvious to Santiago that he and his creations were destined to flourish here, where balls and weddings never seem to stop and the admiration for his brand of artistry had a captivated audience.

In his design journey he met many young designers who looked up to his artistry. One of those is his protege, John Herrera, who has since gone on to achieve global recognition as well. “Cary and I are kindred spirits. I was 22 when I met him at the Philippine Fashion Design Competition back in 2004,” says Herrera. During this time Santiago gave support and guidance to the struggling designer, to which the latter is most grateful for. “The most important lesson I learned from him is to throw the rule book out of the window. He encouraged me to always follow my instincts,” he says. And while much has been written about Santiago’s kind character, this clearly shows how his consideration and empathy to fellow artists.

What we all love about Cary Santiago is that as much as his pieces are showstoppers that express drama to the fullest degree, they are also exquisitely made. No stitch is out of place, and every last crystal set exactly where they ought to be. His signature doily-like, laser cutting was quickly followed, with varying results, but by then Santiago was already off exploring new couture executions, such as the 3D trompe l’oeil patterns that were achieved through quilting and metalwork in his solo show for the 2012 Red Charity Gala. Like most artists, Santiago values learning new techniques so much that every collection is distinct and carries an innovation that many will soon follow.

For his 2019 Red Charity Gala collection, he found his inspiration in the rich culture of Japan, specifically the art of making beautiful Geisha dolls. The collection showed the fluidity of Japanese silhouettes but infused with Santiago’s renderings of the iconic doll. With the use of trompe l’oeil art technique, he molded ceramic to create the faces and hands of the geisha while his masterful draping made it look like the wearer was a puppeteer, controlling the delicate geisha. Combining colorful pieces and using black as a base fabric, the collection shows an illusion of living geisha dolls, a move that earned a collective gasp among the hard-to-please crowd.

A true master never rests on his laurels but instead keeps pushing forward by valuing innovation above all. Santiago’s sweet demeanor is paired with an endlessly creative mind and a hand that is able to translate his wildest dreams into reality. That is why Cary Santiago is still untouched as one of the Philippine’s masters of couture.

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TRUE MASTER NEVER RESTS ON HIS LAURELS BUT INSTEAD KEEPS PUSHING FORWARD BY VALUING INNOVATION ABOVE ALL