UNEXPECTED WONDER
Some say this Argentinian capital is the “Paris of Latin America,” and it does not fall short of this surprising reputation
WHEN I STARTED posting pictures on Instagram, a friend asked if Buenos Aires had a European feel. Undoubtedly, Buenos Aires was more European than I expected. Some people call it the “Paris of Latin America.” This colorful and quaint city, being the capital of Argentina, has countless places to visit; and a three-day visit is definitely too short. One of the first places we visited was the Plaza de Mayo, right in the heart of the city. The plaza has been the scene of the most historic events for Argentina, including the popular demonstrations against the dictatorship. The presidential palace, central cathedral, and the monument to the country’s independence are all found at this central square, making this the political, religious, and cultural center of the city. Probably the most symbolic buildings at the plaza is the Casa Rosada, the executive mansion and office of the President of Argentina. It is known for its iconic color. One story says that the house was painted pink to diffuse political tensions at the time—the colors of the opposing political parties (red for Federals and white for
Unitarians) were combined to make pink. Casa Rosada’s famous balcony (which overlooks the Plaza) has been the scene of many famous events, including the numerous speeches of Eva and Juan Peron, the former played by Madonna in the movie Evita. The other interesting place is the Catedral Metropolitana. This main cathedral has become popular recently since it was where Pope Francis, as Archbishop Jorge Bergoglio, used to celebrate mass before he was elected pope in 2013. At first glance, I thought it was another government building because of the marble columns. The interior features elegant gold detailing. The tomb of Argentina’s hero, General José de San Martín, is also found inside. Not too far away from Plaza de Mayo, 600 meters or an eight-minute walk away to be exact, is Café Tortoni, known to be one of the most beautiful cafés in the world and visited by famous people including Albert Einstein. Inside, the café (stained glass ceiling, dark wooden furniture, and old paintings) looks like a Victorian-era set. We tried their famous churros con chocolate; it was not as good as that of San Gines Madrid, but it was still delectable, to say the least. La Recoleta Cemetery is not your usual cemetery. Most of the graves are built above ground. The place is full of fancy carved pillars with a wide assortment of architectural styles mimicking miniature temples or cathedrals. This is the burial site of Argentina’s most famous personalities, including, Eva Peron. You’d normally run into a few Argentines paying their respects. There are several museums in Buenos Aires, however, we only had time for one.
We chose to visit the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo, as we prefer smaller museums. This museum is housed in a beautiful mansion, which was owned by the Errázuziz family. Displayed inside the museum are the family’s collections of paintings and sculpture. The main ballroom and the marble staircase are the main attraction as these were inspired by the Palace of Versailles. It was worth a visit as it gave us a feel of how the prominent families lived in the past. Just outside the museum is Croque Madame, a Parisian-like café in an elegant outdoor setting.
We enjoyed brunch meals, and this café did not disappoint. The croque madame was made to perfection. El Caminito is a traditional alley in La Boca. This place is very touristy but a lot of fun. Colorful houses line each side of the street. Spontaneous performances are done by talented tango dancers. There are a lot of peddlers selling arts, various trinkets, and souvenirs. There are several cafés and this is a good place to try their local empanadas for a quick snack. The Liberia El Ateneo Grand Splendid, was originally a performing arts theater that was turned into a cinema, and is now a bookstore. It is tagged as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. The interiors are quite stunning as they managed to retain the artistic ceiling, the elegant theater boxes and balconies, and even the red stage curtains. It is quite crowded. Unfortunately, there is only one shelf with English titles. We are a family that loves to eat good meat. Nonetheless, we were excited to be in meat lovers’ paradise. Argentina is the third largest consumer of beef per capita. The
country is known for its high quality, grassfed beef. We didn’t skip a beat and headed to one of the more popular steakhouses, La Cabrera. The queue was horrendous (Tip: Don’t go if you do not have a reservation). The place was cozy but dark due to the dark wood and leather seats. The staff was pleasant and attentive. It didn’t take long to spot the star of the menu: the rib eye. We preferred medium doneness. The steak was tender and very flavorful despite being seasoned only with salt. It came with several side dishes and sauces. La Cabrera did not disappoint and now we know why Argentinian beef has earned the reputation of being one of the world’s best. Tourists always dream of staying at luxury hotels. The exorbitant room rates of these hotels prevent making these dreams a reality. So here’s a tip: dress up well and go for the afternoon tea. Built in 1932, Alvear Palace hotel is probably the most luxurious hotel in Buenos Aires. It is located at Buenos Aires’ most elegant neighborhood, Recoleta. The original paintings and French-inspired furniture plus the sophisticated crowd make this hotel quite regal. We had afternoon tea (which included a flute of bubbles) at the L’Orangerie, and we concluded that the best afternoon tea in Manila will look inferior when compared to L’Orangerie. For all devout Catholics, the Pope Francis tour is a must. We joined a tour that followed the religious and educational path of Jorge Mario Bergoglio, the secular name of Pope Francis. Pope Francis was born to a Catholic family of Italian origin in the Barrio de Flores, Buenos Aires. We stopped at places that formed Pope Francis. We visited his first and second home, the church where he was baptized and where he received his first Holy Communion, and the building
where he attended primary school. In my opinion, the most important site was the Basílica of San José de Flores. This is where the Pope took his sacraments and received his religious vocation. Story goes that the 17-year-old Jorge stood up his friends (including his girlfriend) one afternoon and had the urge to go to confession. From then on, he devoted his life to God. We have visited several beautiful basilicas in Europe, but the Basílica de Maria Auxiliadora is definitely high up on the list of the most beautiful churches in the world. This church is not in the city center so it is not very crowded. This is the church where Pope Francis was baptized in Christmas 1936, and where his parents married. As we entered the basilica, we were immediately impressed by its majestic appearance. The interior is colorfully striped, which elicits a happy feeling. The altar is remarkable. The magnificently decorated ceiling is likewise noteworthy. We’ve never seen a more colorful and beautiful Catholic church. The other beautiful churches we visited were Basílica de Santísimo Sacramento, Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, and the Basílica San Nicolas de Bari. These churches have unique architecture with stained glasses and stunning altars, and each one with an interesting collection of sculpture and art pieces. Buenos Aires has left us astounded. The numerous European immigrants contributed to the quaint European character of the city. The city is rich in history and culture, and boasts beautiful architecture. These elements collectively make up the unique personality of Buenos Aires. This is one city we will definitely come back to. We will stay longer next time, so that we can visit the countryside and the famous Iguazu Falls, and of course, eat more Argentinian beef.