Sun.Star Cebu

Facing challenges, criticism, all part of culinary evolution: Seda Cebu chef

- MONICA R. LOPEZ / Writer CONTRIBUTE­D FOTOS

It’s the home of Filipino hospitalit­y, matched with a seamless experience: Seda Ayala Center Cebu. Behind it stands a team that strives for excellence, and that includes executive sous chef Nestor Alcoseba Jr. A self-taught man who could pretty much cook Filipino dishes in his sleep, he grew up in a family adept at cooking. He’s been at it for more than 10 years now, learning the tricks of the trade since high school. His grandfathe­r, Epifanio “Biboy” Roxas, would cook at fiestas in different towns with Nestor in tow. Chef Nestor recalls a time he first learned how to make dinuguan, and how to properly stir it.

He worked part time in fast food chains while studying in college. He then became a certified caregiver. Eventually, he landed a job at one of the hotels in the city. He rose through the ranks from steward all the way to becoming junior sous chef. He landed a fourmonth consultanc­y stint at the Maldives, which he considers one of his fondest memories, before he became who he is today, Seda’s executive sous chef.

Though skilled in various cuisines, including Italian and Spanish, Chef Nestor emphasized the importance of promoting our own cuisine (in fact, his comfort food is his mother Haidelisa Alcoseba’s dish humba). More than the Filipino dishes offered through the hotel’s dining outlet Misto, Chef Nestor, in his own way, showcases the cuisine by being one of the chefs invited to events by Sugbo Turismo relating to the Provincial Tourism Developmen­t Program. The latter is a platform that supports all things local through promoting the products, history and culture of different towns.

Chef Nestor describes his approach to his dishes as “homey with that touch of class.” As a chef, he considers himself to be driven and demonstrat­ive— all in all he’s basically chill.

“I was never known to be a strict chef. Sometimes, we make mistakes. But I’m not the type of person to reprimand someone right then and there. That’s why I prefer cooking in front of them and with them,” he said, adding that he is grateful for his Seda kitchen team, including sous chefs Gina Limot and Bobby Enot.

More than that, he’s constantly thinking up new ideas in terms of recipes, and how to present them while still being open to criticism. To him, this is his way of constantly evolving, which is why he doesn’t let his position get to him.

“The challenge is there (being executive sous chef ). That’s why I don’t let it get to me. I don’t want to get to a position in my life where I don’t get to learn because for me, every day is a learning process,” he shared.

A piece of advice instilled to him by his mentors, Chefs Luke Gagnon and Juanito Abangan, along with Macario Escora, Edward Dandoy and Antonio Toring, whom he considers important people in his journey.

Now he’s passed it on not just to his staff but also his interns, some of whom now work in the industry which he’s proud of.

“I want to keep evolving. I’ve got a long way to go.” /

There’s so much more we can do. We have to be proud of [our local cuisine] because of its distinct flavor.

NESTOR ALCOSEBA JR.

Executive Sous Chef

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