A look back at the glorious gastronomy of Madrid Fusion Manila 2017
The gods of food and wine lend their divine presence to the annual food festival, Madrid Fusión Manila, Marco Rodriguez writes
A special three-day period in April sizzles, not only because of the weather but because of the local culinary scene that pulsates with the coming of the food spectacle called Madrid Fusión Manila. Having had multiple runs—three now and counting—Madrid Fusión Manila pushed the Philippines to the forefront of gastronomic attention anew. Michelin-starred chefs, fathers of avante-garde food movements, and culinary trailblazers descended upon the country in search of indigenous ingredients while on a mission to impart the seeds of their knowledge.
Filipino cuisine, long overlooked and even shunned because of its unfamiliarity to the western palate as compared with the recognised cuisines of our Asian neighbours, has finally found its place. Ours is bold and unapologetic— a bracing assault on the senses, a punch in the face for some—but with a surprisingly enjoyable sting to it. This uncompromising nature of how we enjoy our food is steadily gaining converts around certain parts of the world, as evidenced by the growing number of Filipino restaurants here and abroad. Not only were we re-discovering the potential of our flavours, we were bravely showcasing them as well. A generation of young, passionate, and forward-thinking cooks are taking it upon themselves to rein-
terpret our grandmother’s home cooking, our ubiquitous street snacks, and uninspired carinderia (canteen) fare—bringing them to new and unprecedented heights. So when these culinary constellations made their way to our islands, we were more than ready to receive them, working shoulder-to-shoulder with figures we have always held in such high esteem.
Among this year’s strong and intriguing line-up of this international gastronomy summit themed “Towards A Sustainable Gastronomy Planet” was a man I have a profound respect for. Pedro Subijana, one of the famed pillars of the New Basque Cuisine culinary movement, was scheduled to give a talk. He, along with great friend Juan Mari Arzak (Arzak: #30 in the world, 3-stars Michelin), revolutionised Spanish cuisine after being inspired by Chef Paul Bocuse’s teachings on French Nouvelle Cuisine back in 1976. I was 10 minutes late for Subijana’s talk at the SMX in Pasay; fortunately, the day’s programme was altered and speaking ahead of Señor Subijana was Chef Magnus Ek, who presented New Nordic Cuisine, the kind served at his restaurant Oaxen Krog (2-star Michelin) in Sweden.
StarS talk
Ek introduced such fascinating small bites as cream of sea urchin, seaweed, and apples. He offered a glimpse into his world of curious ingredients through his dish of dried arctic char served with sturgeon roe from Finland and crispy white moss (a textural component originally used to insulate windows from the cold). He even passed around a vial of scallop water which he served with raw Swedish squid and lovage (a citrusy herb used in age-old European recipes); it was an up-close introduction to a fermented ingredient which was pungent and briny with a powerful flavour of shellfish.
Then Subijana took the stage. His warmth was immediately felt by everyone, his voice reassuring, and he held the audience enthralled with his wisdom. His grandfatherly exterior and thick white moustache belied the fact that he was the creator of some of the most cutting-edge dishes I’ve ever tasted. Amenities was an edible hotel kit consisting of an onion sponge with tomato and basil gel, a packet of “sea bath salts” which was actually powdered prawn, Idiazabal cheese “moisturiser,” and pomegranate and cava “mouthwash.” The emblematic Bogavante con
globo de especias was a sublimely cooked piece of lobster with a glob of mozzarella on top. These were among the dishes that regaled me during that unforgettable lunch at Akelarre (3-star Michelin) marvelously overlooking the Bay of Biscay in San Sebastian when I celebrated my honeymoon in 2011.
He highlighted his talk by explaining such dishes as Turbot with Mussels in a Lentil Stew; as well as his bacalao dish wherein he utilises different flavours such as jamon iberico, mushrooms, and parmesan to achieve a higher, more concentrated form of umami. Such kitchen alchemy explains why his restaurant is named Akelarre (witches’ Sabbath) because of the magical transformations that occur within its walls.
Another leading figure I was most interested in listening to was Jordi Roca: the youngest in a trio of talented brothers who comprise El Celler de Can Roca (#3 in the world, 3-stars Michelin) in Girona, Spain. Considered as one of the best pastry chefs in the world, Roca is also the creative force behind Rocambolesc—an adventurous ice cream bar or gelateria. Unfortunately, he contracted a throat infection a few days before, and lost his voice. Not to disappoint the crowd, he whispered all his thoughts to his lovely wife Alejandra Rivas who served as his mouthpiece. Matters turned for the worse as merely minutes into his presentation, an Intensity 3 earthquake rocked the venue and sent everyone fleeing to the exits. Order was eventually restored not too long after with the pair—exhibiting the utmost calm and professionalism—making a second attempt at their interrupted segment.
They demonstrated such inventive dessert plates, among which were the Caramelo Soplado—candied spheres reminiscent of taffy apples in a country fair, as well as a delightful granite of lime, basil, and mint—inspired by the Cuban mojito. Thus concluded what could most likely have been the most courageous and inspiring talk of the series.
As with any global event featuring food personalities at the top of their game, nothing would be complete without the fun and festivities. I was invited by tastemaker Cheryl Tiu to attend the Saturday night closing party for Madrid Fusión 2017 at Vask. I arrived at the tail-end of the 10 Hands dinner collaboration by Chefs Josean Alija of Nerua Guggenheim in Bilbao (#56 in the world, 1-star Michelin), Julien Royer of Odette in Singapore (#9 in Asia, #86 in the world, 2-star Michelin), Eelke Plasmeijer and Ray Adriansyah of Locavore in Bali (#22 in Asia), and our very own Chele Gonzalez of Gallery Vask (#35 in Asia). The chefs were all in a celebratory mood and lambanog (coconut wine) was later passed around in the outdoor terrace and challenges issued as to whom would be able to outdrink the rest. I exchanged well-wishes with Rodrigo de la Calle of El Invernadero (1-star Michelin) and Kiko Moya of L ‘Escaleta (2-star Michelin). I spied Simon Rogan and Dan Cox both of L ‘Enclume (2-star Michelin).
Times like these don’t come very often. A confluence of stars takes a break from their multi-awarded kitchens to enjoy camaraderie with their Filipino counterparts. With the temperature continuing to swell during this brutal summer, remember that both soaring pride and recognition in our culinary heritage will be sure to follow suit.