Activewear icon FILA takes athleisure to the runway

Philippine Tatler gets the exclusive on athleisure brand FILA’s first ever participation at the Milan Fashion Week

FILA traces its roots to Biella, a small town in northern Italy, where two brothers set up shop in hopes of producing highquality textiles for the locals. This business was later established as a knitwear manufacturing company, known not just in Biella, but in various other areas in Italy. Enrico Frachey was later brought in as managing director; his vision and resourcefulness the catalysts behind FILA’s evolution into a global sportswear brand. The 20th century ushered in a burgeoning interest in sport, which encouraged Frachey to have the company go the activewear route. He brought in designer Pier Luigi Rolando and engineering director Alessandro Galliano and together, they set to work on creating fabric that would perfectly complement the athlete and provide the feel of complete freedom.

FILA’s premiere outerwear collection debuted in 1972. The innovative nature of Rolando’s work, which utilised a mix of fabrics in novel ways, was well-met. It was the iconic White Line Collection (which came out the following year), with its bold mix of red, white, and navy, that did away with the all-white trend so commonplace in tennis apparel at the time. This would put FILA on the map, making it known as the brand that caters not just to the athlete but the cosmopolitan individual.

Last year, FILA accomplished a new feat by unveiling its spring/summer 2019 pieces— its first-ever standalone collection—on the

runway at Milan Fashion Week. Though very much associated with activewear due to its origins, the brand imbued its designs with an urban feel, making for an overall sophisticated look. Creative directors Antonino Ingrasciotta and Josef Graesel revisited FILA’s extensive archives to get to the very core of the brand’s essence, reinterpreting their discoveries in a contemporary style. A unique fusion of sport and fashion, each piece—many of which were heavily inspired by tennis, swimming, basketball, and sailing—that came down the runway was a callback to a key moment of FILA history.

Though very much associated with activewear due to its origins, the brand imbued its designs with an urban feel, making for an overall sophisticated look

Logo swimsuits, polos and t-shirts, sports jackets, hoodies—all these were true to how the world knows and interprets the FILA DNA. But when paired with sleek overcoats, button-downs, silk dresses, and chiffon skirts, these utilitarian pieces make the transition to sophisticated streetwear. Masculine pieces such as the one-piece tracksuit from the 1980s are given a decidedly feminine twist, thanks to an updated form-fitting silhouette. The FILA check pattern (a reference to the Wimbledon tennis courts) is key to the collection, found in tailored pieces and outerwear, used in different combinations. The popular heritage trainers (the T-1 and the Euro Jogger) were also reissued as the perfect finishing touches for the runway looks. Not to be dismissed was the Disruptor, which was presented in a boot version in flight knit.

FILA also allowed its guests to travel back in time and revisit the brand’s history through its post-show exhibition and dinner at La Treinnale di Milano. After a five-course meal and champagne in celebration of the milestone, invitees proceeded to the exhibition area, where they were able to see some of FILA’s most iconic pieces from decades past. The White Line Collection, renowned for having been worn by Swedish tennis legend Bjorn Borg, was on display, serving as a highlight of FILA’s evolution over the years.