Land of sweet surprises
Negros Occidental is known as the Sugar Bowl of the Philippines. The province is home to sprawling haciendas planted with sugar cane. Old ancestral houses also dot the place; it is one of the few provinces in the country that have preserved their postcolo
Agriculture and the environment flourish there, too. The scenery is sheer beauty. And yet beyond the abundance of postcard-quality views and landmarks of the province, there lie jewels only the determined travelers can find.
At 195.9 kilometers to the west from Cebu, Negros Occidental is easily accessible by boat or plane. It is only a 45-minute flight via Cebu Pacific from the Mactan-Cebu International Airport to the Silay Airport, where the gentle sound of the Hiligaynon language fills the air and sweet Negrense smiles welcome visitors.
From the airport, sightseeing travelers may have their first stop at The Mansion, located at the Calle Ledesma, Silay City. It’s just a 15-minute cab ride, and there they may feast on delectable Negrense dishes like bas-oy (pig liver soup) and homemade piyaya. The Mansion is the remains of the old two-storey home of the Ledesma family. It was built in 1920 and designed by Italian architect Lucio Bernasconi. The home-turned-restaurant is an iconic example of colonial architecture in Silay.
After a filling meal at The Mansion, travelers may go around Silay for a bit, to look more into the past of the city in ancestral homes that have been turned into museums, like the Balay Negrense along Cinco de Noviembre Street. Those with restless feet raring for adventure may head straight to the Bacolod City South Terminal, where to embark on a four- to five-hour land trip to Sipalay town, at P200 fare per person.
Sipalay is at some 175 kilometers south of Bacolod City. Unlike the northern parts of Negros Occidental that are covered with sugar cane plantations, Sipalay has vast areas planted to rice or “palay,” from where Sipalay got its name. Aside from rice, Sipalay is known for fine, white sand beaches that stretch for miles. It also has fascinating dive sites – sunken ships and precipices.
In Sipalay City proper, one may take a motorcycle going to the Punta Ballo beach. Transportation here is rather scarce, so it’s advisable to keep the motorcycle driver’s contact number. But it’s also possible to arrange for transportation with the resort beforehand.
Tucked away from the city proper, the Punta Ballo Beach rests below the cliffs of Sipalay. The Artistic Diving Resort and Nataasan are two of the few affordable resorts there that offer a majestic view of the sunset. Divers are also provided with trips to the Campomanes Bay, which is a favorite dive site among safari divers because of its enchanted coral gardens and sunken warships.
If one prefers seclusion and privacy away from the usual tourist crowds, there’s Sugar Beach. Located on a nearby island, Sugar Beach – Langub Beach to the locals – is somewhat separated from Sipalay. But it is a favorite of backpackers who choose to just laze on the fine brown sand of the beach. To get there, travelers must take a pumpboat that costs around P2,000 from the Poblacion Beach in the city proper.
Among the resorts that lined the Sugar Beach, the Driftwood Village and Takatuka provide unique experiences for guests. For those who want to enjoy the tropical living, Driftwood Village mimics the “bahay kubo,” the traditional Filipino residence. Takatuka, on the other hand, would excite the inner child of guests. Derived from the children’s book “Pippi Longstsocking,” Takatuka looks like a gallery of lost things consisting of 12 individually styled rooms.
For a more solitary accommodation and recharging of weary bodies, one may take a 20-minute drive from Sipalay to Cauayan. Unspoiled by tourists, Cauayan’s family-owned Punta Bulata Resort provides tranquility to guests, who may also delight in the resort’s traditional massages by trained local women at the Ayu Spa.
Another 20-minute boat ride from the resort takes travelers to the largest among the Bulata islands in Cauayan, Danjugan. Limited only to 30 guests per visit, Danjugan is under the care of the Philippine Reef & Rainforest Conservation Foundation Inc., which purchased the island in 1994 upon seeing the abundance of its marine and wildlife biodiversity and decided to protect it from human abuse. Danjugan is not a resort, but it accommodates visitors who would love to dive, snorkel, kayak and swim in the wellpreserved marine sanctuary.
Truly, Negros Occidental is a beautiful blend of protecting the ecosystem and tourism. The province is a good example for other provinces to emulate. It is a testament that government and tourists themselves can join hands in protecting and preserving the natural jewels that draw the tourists in – like ants milling around sweet treats.