The Freeman

The Versatile Philippine Malong

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a backstrap loom. The pattern or style of the malong may indicate the weaver’s tribal origin, such as the Maranao malong landap. Very rare malong designs and styles can indicate the village in which the malong was made, for example, the extremely intricate malong rawatan made only by a handful of Maranao weavers in Lanao del Sur, Mindanao.

Hand-woven malongs, which are costly, are likely to be used only at social functions, to display the social and economic status of the wearer. While modern malongs are made of cotton and Lurex threads, some contempora­ry hand-woven malongs are made of inexpensiv­e rayon thread, to reduce the manufactur­ing cost to the weaver and ultimate cost to the consumer. There are many grades of cotton thread, and the cost of a malong can also be reduced by using the lesser grades of cotton thread, or by creating a loose or coarse weave.

Machine-made printed cotton malongs are made in Indonesia specifical­ly for export to the Philippine­s, and are commonly referred to as “batik” because the item is imported; those inexpensiv­e machine-made malongs are used for everyday purposes. The designs of traditiona­l handwoven designs are used in imported cotton from Thailand, allowing the purchaser to have a cotton machine-printed malong which, from a distance, convincing­ly mimics the look of a much more expensive hand-woven malong.

The malong can function as a skirt for both men and women, a turban, a dress, a blanket, a sunshade, a bedsheet, a “dressing room,” a hammock, a prayer

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