Designer Spotlight
Today, Uptown/Downtown features three designers who specialize in formal wear.
Jontie Martinez
Jontie Martinez is the current secretary of the Fashion and Design Council of the Philippines ( FDCP) and was a participant in the recent Burdang Taal Show during Fashion Week.
Jontie started in the fashion industry in 1988 via the RTW, designing casual ladies’ wear for a company supplying the garments to department stores like Landmark and Isetann. After a year, he answered an ad for a designer for a small boutique (Thread and Needle) on Balete Drive. He stayed there for almost 10 years, learning the ropes of how to run a made-to-order atelier. Then he opened his own shop Galatea with his brother Nicky (also a fashion designer) in 1999. Since then, he has concentrated in made-to-order formal wear, including wedding and debutante’s ensembles, pageant and awards night gowns and cocktail dresses.
In 2000, he was invited by his good friend Ronaldo Arnaldo to join the Fashion Designers Association of the Philippines (FDAP), which he believes really jumpstarted his career because, through the prestigious organization, he was able to participate in fashion events here and abroad.
“I would like to think that my fashion style is eclectic. Mostly, I prefer the more feminine side of clothing, the delicate laces, intricate embroidery and beadwork, the womanly silhouette, bright colors, high heels, the works! That is why I love dressing up brides on their special day, or beauty queens when they compete in national and international pageants, or stars who walk the red carpet during showbiz functions. But there is also a part of me that appreciates the edgier face of fashion: the precise tailoring, stark cuts, minute details that escape the untrained eye, but make a also a huge fan of the Filipiniana: the timeless
terno, the classic Maria Clara and the vibrant Muslim-inspired creations of fashion greats like Ramon Valera, Ben Farrales and Aureo Alonzo,” Jontie says.
If he were to give five fashion tips to women, it would be to follow the five C’s. His advice is to go for the CLASSICS: the little black dress, the crisp white blouse and the perfectly fitting jeans. He also says women should always consider COMFORT. “While I adore waist- cinching corsets and sky-high heels on the runway, in reality they are fashion’s punishment for the vain, and will most probably result in bad backs and aching feet,” he says.
Jontie adds that COLOR is also an important factor in dressing up. He says picking the right color that will complement a woman’s complexion, age, size and personality can spell the difference between being a fashionista and a fashion victim. Along with color, he mentions that CUT is essential in choosing what to wear. Those who are “far from being a size zero will attest that the right cut can hide a multitude CONFIDENCE is key!
Jontie says, “As every designer knows, the right fabric is the foundation of every piece of clothing. It is the very basis from where one starts to imagine a garment. Being a formal wear designer, I personally love fabrics that move: silk, chiffon, georgette, charmeuse! Their f luidity is essential in cutting and draping, molding or ruching, in layering or pleating, even in embellishments like swags or hand-made rosettes. I also enjoy working with jersey, even if many think it is tricky and unforgiving. This soft, stretchy material can become a casual overlap dress. For wedding gowns, I often utilize duchesse satin or silk gazar, the fabric forming the silhouette according to the shape and taste of any bride. In the end, using the right fabric for a particular creation is not unlike an architect or an engineer choosing the right materials in building a house: choose well, the dress will stand the test of time; choose poorly, and it crumbles like a house of cards.”
Richard Papa
Richard Papa is not just a creator of the apparel, he is also an instructor of apparel creation. At present, he teaches cutting and sewing at the School of Fashion and the Arts (SoFA) in Makati City. Richard, who promotes the use of Filipino fabric, is known not only for his thorough academic methodology but also for his enthusiasm in encouraging young designers to pursue their craft.
Recounting his childhood fascination with couture, Richard shares, “As early as 12 years old, I wanted to become a fashion designer. I took up Bachelor of Fine Arts major in Advertising because it is the closest thing to have a degree and study fashion at the same time.
Back then, Richard recalls, fashion was just a vocational course. After graduation, he just opened his shop in 1989 without any formal training. While his shop was in operation, he took up special courses in pattern making, Filipiniana and sewing. After 10 years in the business, FDAP invited him to become a member.
“My fashion style is clean and simple. I prefer close to the body with great detail in construction and design. I love framing the face of my client so I prefer off-the-shoulder or open neckline. I make sure that my details are limited to one focal point and I love using monotones with very little color accents,” he says.
Richard adds, “I always tell women to dress according to their personality and body type and I encourage them to look for their own personal style. A limited budget should not discourage women from seeking to improve their wardrobe because not all things expensive are beautiful and not all beautiful things are expensive. Ladies, keep your fashion concepts simple and allow your personality to shine while wearing your clothes instead of the clothes overwhelming who you really are.”
Edgar Madamba
Edgar Madamba’s latest collection displays his ability to work with various silhouettes. Edgar’s career in fashion started when a relative commissioned him to design for her then newly- opened shop that specialized in one- of-a-kind RTW dresses. The line was in high demand and eventually, clients started asking for custom-made clothes.
Edgar confesses to a love for vintage- style clothing. “I’ve always been fascinated by the ‘50s and ‘60s — their elements are noticeable and always defined in every line I design. I love to create textures on my fabrics to give them a more personal touch. I quilt and embellish them with ribbons and silk flowers and I am particularly fond of the rose and hibiscus varieties. I am also inclined to do heavy beadworks when the occasion calls for it. Despite the variety of textures, my clothes are simple that there are no interpretations of details. They are not profound like poetry but then again, I also go off- beat once in a while and experiment on cuts and constructions where the silhouette comes out architectural.”