Ramen alley, lavender fields & great steaks in Hokkaido
There are many types of travel tours one can join. There are the usual shopping trips, arts- and- culture discovery packages and vacation getaways. And then there are specific interest tours organized, like those that involve eating one’s way through destinations. It’s a culinary adventure shared by individuals with a common interest and passion: food.
And so, it was Hokkaido this time around, the second largest of Japan’s four main islands. We took off from Manila via PAL to Tokyo’s Narita Airport and then rode the connecting flight of All Nippon Airways to the Chitose Airport in Sapporo. How pleasing that our tour’s first meal, which was served on ANA’s new Dreamliner aircraft, was a very well-prepared Japanese menu.
RAMEN ALLEY
Our first foodie stop brought us to Ramen Alley, a short walking distance from the Hotel Mercure Sapporo where we first stayed. It is a narrow street lined with tiny ramen shops and we all fanned out in groups of three so we could all squeeze into cramped vacant spots we could find. Our chosen shop was manned by one who single-handedly dished out our piping-hot ramen bowls.
FURANO AND LAVENDER FIELDS
July is the best time to enjoy the lavender fields of Furano when the flower farms are in full bloom. This was one of the main reasons we had to go to Hokkaido. We were brought to this lilac heaven in Farm Tomita where we marveled at acres upon acres of multi-hued flowerbeds. So breathtaking, this beautiful sight made for picture-perfect screensavers for most of the group!
After we had our fill of selfies and all things lavender — soaps, potpourri, candles, colognes, ice cream, and even lavender-flavored soda — we were ready for lunch and so off we went in our bus to Highland Furano Restaurant. Still reeling from the effects of flower power, we didn’t expect to be met with a bland, austere, and almost sleepy cafeteria-like ambiance. Even the plate presentation of the dishes that were brought to our tables was so dated. How un-Japanese, or so we thought.
GENGHIS KHAN MEETS SAPPORO BEER
Did you know that Genghis Khan and his invading horde of Mongols ate lamb and mutton all day but didn’t have to wolf down all the mutton and drink all the Sapporo beer they could inside of 90 minutes?
Ha, that’s where the Genghis Khan Lamb Buffet experience comes in! It is a huge Oktoberfest-like hall complete with overflowing beer and heady whiffs of smoke coming from groups barbecuing away at their tables.
MOUTHS TO FARM
Yup, you heard it right — all 23 mouths in our group descended on Restaurant Uemura (a farm-tomouth steakhouse ) in the town of Shiraoi, southwest of Hokkaido. What seemed like a cowboy feast was set on several long tables in an outdoor shed with no walls. The prized steaks were grilled right in front of us and we were mesmerized by the sight and aroma of succulent, mouthwatering Shiraoiwagyu beef (aka Japanese Black Beef). Every rich bite consisted of a tender, melt-in-your-mouth morsel of marbled beef. There are good steaks, and there are good steaks, but this Shiraoiwagyu speaks of greatness. It was a no frills, all-heaven fiesta!
ANOTHER BEEFY EXPERIENCE
A sukiyaki disciple I am not, up until I entered what I consider a temple of sukiyaki in Kiyota-ku, Sapporo. The Restaurant Gyuuya Edohachi was a truly divine experience. Imagine the exquisitely marbled Japanese Black Beef slices wading in glistening waves of heavenly shoyu glaze, flanked by vestments of silken tofu, spires of onion leeks and a chorus of enoki mushrooms. If all sukiyaki could taste as heavenly as this, then I’m a true convert.
KAISEKI, ONSEN AND TATAMI
At Hotel Sekisui-Tei in Noboribetsu, we likewise enjoyed a taste of kaiseki, a sophisticated traditional multi-course dinner which required all of us — in true, Japanese tradition — to don kimonos. Pretty plates using the freshest ingredients of the season were served one at a time to highlight the nuances of flavors present in each dish, and we delighted in the care and fine details that went into the preparation of the meal. Kaiseki courses are categorized by cooking methods with each dish representing a particular cooking technique. This is Japanese haute cuisine.
CHERRY PICKING
After breakfast, we proceeded to experience the other cherry experience. No, not the blossoms. Armed with baskets and ladders, we arrived at Yoichi for playful cherry picking while eating all you can but no pabaon, no balot-balot.
FISH MARKET AND HOKKAIDO CRAB
Lunch at Sankaku Fish Market required a certain mens rea mindset , an almost criminal pincer-like mentality, if you will. Well, you guessed it right. Crabs! Hokkaido crabs — live, humongous crustaceans cooked every which way. There were fresh oysters and scallops, too.
SWEET ENDINGS
All good things must come to an end, but not until we had our fill of sugar-rush stops at the Ishiya Shiroi Koibito Park for their famous Langue de Chat ( Lenguas de Gato), Le Tao for more boxed pastry treats, and of course, the Royce Chocolate Shop for the requisite chocolate pasalubong treats. For inquiries on culinary tours, call Classic Travelhaus at 819-0746.