The Philippine Star

KING OF CLING

- By FRANCINE GACRAMA

The fashion world has lost one of its greats — the inimitable Azzedine Alaïa.

In honor of the couturier, we look back at his most recent couture collection, a comeback that has had his most loyal followers waiting for a full six years. No stranger to having a reputation to present collection­s weeks late than every other label, his latest lineup dropped references to the ‘60s with its cocoon feel on some of his coat designs, as well as giving off a folkloric sense (as seen in the embroidery on his red silhouette­s). The designer’s fabric choices of leather and snakeskin had an underlying toughness, which complement­ed the richness in technique, form and allure that Alaïa’s known for.

In the lineup, we zero in on the show’s opener, and adoptive daughter: Naomi Campbell. Her look is a black and white embroidere­d A-line shearling coat with toggles. The rose woven pattern seen on the fur ensemble reappeared on knits, dresses, boots and leggings, and became a staple pattern of the collection.

Every stitch had its purpose for the Tunisian designer. When it came down to the constructi­on, choice of fabric, and even steaming the garment right before it walks down the runway, Alaïa was the type to rely on nobody but himself. That is the beauty of this passionate designer; he has a huge amount of discipline, and respect for the craft unlike any body else. He took his time to understand his fabric, pattern and most of all structure, and that is something that he is revered for.

In YStyle’s look of the week, we remember the legacy of Azzedine, as there is no other designer who has the same amount of discipline, passion and influence like his fashion house.

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