YSTYLE PICKS: STYLE FEST PH ‘18
a culmination of martin Bautista’s greatest hits in tribute to his muses.
Fashion Exchange International designers Martin Bautista, Maureen Disini and Michael Levya debuted their first official RTW collections as Globe Telecom celebrates the launch of their new fashion platform Style Fest PH — YStyle supplies the rundown.
If there was something familiar about Martin Bautista’s show last Sunday, it’s because you’ve seen these dresses before. From him, mostly, but they’re still amazing dresses.
With glamorous ease and feminine strength interpreted in his usual way, these are still the kind of clothes only Martin can make. Inspired by his love affair with makeup, this was a color-driven collection painted by warm peaches and nude tones, of cooler reds and assorted sorbet hues.
Martin then took his audience into the wardrobe of his more than 10-year archive. We saw his signature silks in drops and drapes; his overwrought but still chic adornment; and most recent of all, the gathered tulle he finesses into froufrou and mille-feuille frocks.
But more than just a grab bag of greatest hits and successful motifs, there were thoughtful updates throughout: there was the seamless dress, hand-molded from a single piece of fabric on the body of top model Ria Bolivar. An update from an original 2011 piece, he anchored the satin weave by way of a single twist, fringed on the side with a cascade of plexiglass tubes. Unrestricted. Fun. Easy!
You also saw renewed energy in a draped knit top with an embellished biker short (not far from what Kim Kardashian would wear in 2018). Urban goddess on top, space-techno ninja on the bottom.
“It was inspired by Pam, actually,” writing about his longtime muse and collaborator, Pam Quiñones, in an email, “she was in my studio dressed on the way to a spin class. I showed her a top I loved with unfinished trousers; I hated them put together and I just couldn’t finish the pants. I asked her to try the top over her athletic wear instead and it was magic. We were both like, ‘That’s the look!’”
With themes and motifs that once-upon-a-collection seemed forward and improbable with its “newness,” you look around and you start to see other designers catching up. Maybe by presenting a collection as contemporary as his, it’s a small comeuppance for dipping into fashion’s curve (as opposed to well ahead of it).
But at the end of the day, Martin Bautista’s clothes will always be in service to his women. “I know it sounds pa-ulit ulit nalang but it’s what I do, I create looks for women. That’s really it.” With frocks of unfettered female fantasy and separates cut with a couture-like sensibility (evident still in his brand’s ready-to-wear), his spring/summer 2019 collection was made in tribute to his loyal muses.
There’s no fault in making beautiful dresses that speak to “now,” especially if Martin’s clients continue to clamor for them. Judging from the oohs and ahhs from the front row, they still do.
And for Martin Bautista, that’s all that really matters.