JOEY SAMSON:

Create and recreate, construct and deconstruct

tapis

Ihave been watching Joey Samson’s work the past many years because I find him so gifted. He has a mind of his own, not caring about what is trendy or what styles are mainstream. Up close, I see his impeccable tailoring, his fine workmanship and his unfettered twists on design, resulting in something very Joey Samson. This couturier has made his distinct stamp on fashion, and clearly he is now a major force to reckon with in the industry.

Samson is known for his androgynous designs and his works of deconstruction, which never fail to amaze me. But during Ternocon 3, he amazed his followers (and they are legion) even more. He showed breathtaking numbers with endless pleats (these remind me of an accordion; or pages of a book standing upright, so delicately).

Ternocon 3 likewise unraveled the closet romanticist/ poet in Samson, presenting metaphors and allusions that come from an artist’s heart.

“I should have titled my collection ‘Ang mga Pag-ibig ni Jose Rizal,’” he says, as his pieces were inspired by the women in Rizal’s life.

A white gown with pleats delicately swishing as one gapes at it, was inspired by Josephine Bracken, the “sweet foreigner” alluded to in Rizal’s “Mi Ultimo Adios.” Samson says that the dried fresh flowers on the off-center of Bracken’s gown represent her miscarriage and being La Viuda de Rizal.

One of my favorites is the gown inspired by O Sei San, the Japanese woman who almost tempted Rizal to settle in Japan. “I transformed a vintage kimono and obi set into a balintawak with a stylized alampay knotted at the back, like an obi sash, ending in two long panels of piña suksok,” explains Samson.

Rizal’s first love, Leonor Rivera (Maria Clara), was top of mind when Samson created a number with book-leaf layers of alternate black and ivory Swiss tulle with a row of buttons marching down the front.

Samson was listening to music genres from kundimans to Sylvia La Torre to Gary Granada, and different soundtracks such as Les Parapluies de Cherbourg and Cinema Paradiso. “I want music and film to play an important part in my design process.”

There you go. Samson never stops creating and recreating.

Styling by NOEL MANAPAT, Hair and Makeup by ERIC MANINGAT Queenie Cañamaso in terno top with ruffled tuxedo and button detail repeated at the back and on the terno sleeves paired with off-white organdy book-leaf skirt. Samson says, “In my mind, Rizal’s invisible love letters for Orang are tucked on the pages of the skirt.”

Yaofa Dela Cruz in plaid cotton coordinates of cropped terno top and book-leaf serpentine skirt finished by a piña coattails/ and embroidered, fringed tulle alampay.

Krystal Espiritu in alternate black and ivory Swiss tulle book-leaf Maria Clara tuxedo shirt terno with buttons marching from the back over the shoulder down the front