Tantalizing Tokyo The unique charms of Japan’s capital city

Before my trip to Tokyo,

I’d been told how terribly expensive Japan was; how, without some basic knowledge of the language I would struggle; but, on the flipside, how it was leaps and bounds ahead of the world with technology.

What I found was quite different: From the affordability (shop around and you’ll find some brilliant deals), the welcoming nature of its people, and the fluently spoken English (with signage to match), but, weirdly, the leastaccessible Wi-Fi I have ever experienced. ( Tip: If you’re staying in Japan for any length of time and don’t have data roaming and the hotel hasn’t provided a complimentary smartphone, buy a SIM at the airport — you really will need access to Google Maps.)

For my week in Tokyo I was staying at Daiwa Roynet, a modern, spacious hotel in the topnotch upmarket shopping district of Ginza. It’s a great area to get over the jetlag — bustling enough to make it fun, but not too crazy.

Following the advice of the concierge (more useful than any travel guide) I headed to the Ameyoko market, close to Ueno Park. The narrow walkways are filled with shops and stalls selling everything you’d expect to find and more — from raw fish and meat, to shoes, bags and clothes. It was an assault on the senses. The air filled with the noise of traders shouting out their offers in Japanese, and the varied smells of what they were offering.

You can pass hours wandering here — taking photos and admiring the organized chaos — but you’ll need to find some lunch eventually. Thankfully it’s easy to grab a hearty bowl of ramen at one of the scores of doorway noodle bars in the district. All seemed worth trying.

From the cacophony of noise at Ameyoko, it’s a short trip across the street to the muchcalmer Ueno Park, which boasts a selection of galleries, museums and Tokyo’s most-famous zoo. During my visit, the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum had a free exhibition of interesting and varied work by up-and- coming local artists, but the majority of its other exhibitions required individual entry fees.