Pretty Complicated

Complications are widely regarded as testaments to a watchmaker’s skill. Vacheron Constantin continues to show the extent of its mastery in its 2020 collection

OF THE HOLY TRINITY in Swiss watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin stands as a somewhat softspoken steward of the art of horology. With a history that dates back to 1755, the Swiss manufacture carries a heritage that is expressed in each of its timepieces. For its 2020 collection, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled a series of watches with various complications, masterfully executed as befitting of the maison’s watchmaking savoir-faire, of course.

“La Musique Du Temps” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph – Tempo

The Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph packs a whopping 24 complications in a doublesided reversible case. Its “front” side features a second time zone display, split-second chronograph measuring up to 30 minutes and a perpetual calendar. Meanwhile, the other dial includes the tourbillon, retrograde moon phase, sunrise and sunset time displays, day/night length tracker and a power reserve indicator. With its slide on the case middle, the minute repeater is accessible from either dial. This marvel beats at 18,800 vibrations per hour, and comes in a 50-millimetre pink gold case paired with a brown alligator leather strap.

“La Musique Du Temps” Les Cabinotiers Astronomical Striking Grand Complication – Ode to Music

This aptly-named double-sided minute repeater carries a special soundprint unique to each timepiece in this collection, recorded and certified by the legendary Abbey Road Studios as part of the “One of Not Many” campaign. Using the ultra-thin hand-wound Calibre 1731 M820, the Les Cabinotiers Astronomical Striking Grand Complication delivers 19 complications in a case that’s merely 12.54 millimetres tall. Aside from being a chiming watch, it also comes fitted with a perpetual calendar and tracks the moon phase, seasons, equinox, solstices, and zodiac. A real-time display of the heavens above the Northern Hemisphere via a sky chart completes the package. The watch’s matching alligator strap complements its blue opaline dial, while the pink gold case and clasp bestow it with a royal flourish.

Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph

Vacheron Constantin has combined two time-honoured complications in the Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph. Accentuating the tourbillon mechanism is a new carriage configuration designed to elevate the visual presentation of the well-loved tourbillon regulator. Not to be outdone, the monopusher chronograph also features something noteworthy. The “friction” technique is employed here in conjunction with the lateral clutch mechanism and column wheel to protect the chronograph from excessive wear over the long term. The result is a smoother actuation of the pusher along with a reduced potential for stuttering of the chronograph seconds hand.

Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar Skeleton

The Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar Skeleton (opposite) allows the wearer to view its inner workings in all their glory thanks to its skeletonised movement.

Despite being visually-driven in its goal, skeletonisation is a demanding subset of watchmaking techniques. After all, the act of reducing a movement’s bridges and plates without compromising on its reliability or robustness is not an easy one, and this difficulty increases exponentially with a calibre’s complexity. Here, the numerous parts that make up the perpetual calendar makes skeletonising the movement a technical feat in and of itself. The fact that the movement’s height is just four millimetres despite this is the icing on the proverbial cake. AM