Augustman

A LESSON IN TEXTURE

Few timepieces embody elegance like Breguet’s dress watches. For its 2020 collection, the maison has given the iconic Classique 7337 a new look

- WORDS EVIGAN XIAO PHOTOS BREGUET

THE HOUSE OF BREGUET is one steeped in tradition. Its founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is widely and consistent­ly regarded as one of the most iconic figures in horology. Over the years, Breguet owners have comprised historical personalit­ies such as Queen Victoria, Napoléon Bonaparte and Sir Winston Churchill.

For its new Classique 7337, Breguet has expanded on the venerable timepiece’s visual palette to include a rose gold model with a silvered gold dial. A white gold model with a gold dial finished in “Breguet blue” will also be available to cater to contempora­ry tastes.

Purists appreciate the Classique collection for its representa­tion for

Breguet’s unmistakab­le design language.

The Classique 7337 proudly displays this through its guilloché. Breguet is one of the few watchmaker­s that continue to operate the rose engine lathe by hand in the practice of this time-honoured technique.

Guillochag­e emerged in the 1500s, and was first practised on softer materials like wood and ivory. It was only during the 1700s that it started seeing applicatio­ns on metal. By the late 18th century, watchmaker­s were experiment­ing with the technique, and Abraham-Louis Breguet was one of its earliest adopters. With time on their side and a penchant for maintainin­g important traditiona­l crafts, it’s no surprise that Breguet ranks as one of the best in this particular area.

Hand-guillochag­e is as intimate as it is ornamental; the act requires patience, dedication and mastery of the tools. The artisan (or guillochéu­r) controls the process via a series of cranks which orientate the dial while applying various amounts of pressure to advance the dial against a cutter.

A steady hand is necessary for this, as even the slightest wobble will result in an inconsiste­nt engraving. Unsurprisi­ngly, the entire process is extremely time-intensive and requires razor-sharp focus.

The dial of the Classique 7337 features a trio of guilloché: barley grain for the edges of the hour chapter ring indexed with Roman numerals, checkerboa­rd for the small seconds and Clou de Paris in the centre. The moon phase display on the timepiece has also been remodelled by Breguet to feature an embossed moon, depicted in shiny relief and matte grooves for greater depth. Meanwhile, the day and date apertures located at 10 and two o’clock respective­ly brings to mind Breguet’s No. 3833 quarterrep­eating pocket watch ‒ another nod to the manufactur­e’s history.

Breguet’s extra-thin, hand-decorated Calibre 502.3 powers the Classique 7337. The movement features a reduced thickness, an open barrel and an offset rotor (also with guilloché applied). Apart from being visually striking, this distinctiv­e design also allows the wearer to distinguis­h the barrel spring through the sapphire case back.

The 39-millimetre Classique 7337 comes with a 45-hour power reserve and is waterresis­tant to 30 metres. Both the rose gold and white gold models will be available with a blue alligator leather strap fitted with a gold folding buckle. Simple but elegant, the Classique 7337 reaffirms Breguet’s dedication to the timeless codes set in place by its founder. AM

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