FRESH NEW LOOK Sometimes, a visual update is all you need, as these line extensions of existing high complications prove

Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5370 Split-Seconds Chronograph was first introduced in 2015. The latest reference to be introduced retains the original’s platinum case, but has a new Grand Feu enamel dial in blue instead. The production of these dials is a challenging process ‒ the brand has shared that rejection rates are high given the perfection demanded, with just one good dial being accepted for roughly every 10 that are discarded. It’s inherent to Grand Feu enamelling, given the high temperatures involved. Dial (and strap) colour aside, the new watch is virtually identical to its predecessor, with a rattrapante chronograph that measures elapsed times of up to 30 minutes.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication

This timepiece was first released in 2010, with a follow up unveiled five years later. The latest reference, featured here, has a pink gold case with filigree-like decorations that have been laser welded on the dial, but otherwise remains largely unchanged. There’s the minute repeater, which is activated via the slider on the left case flank. The rest of the complications are on the dial, beginning with the orbital tourbillon, which makes a complete circuit around the dial once every sidereal day. Meanwhile, the sun-shaped pointer adjacent to the inner flank of the watch makes a far slower trek ‒ just once a year ‒ to point to the current date, month and zodiac.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin

The Overseas collection embodies the spirit of travel and exploration for Vacheron Constantin, but also exudes a casual sporty vibe that serves as a counterpoint to seemingly more “serious” lines like the Patrimony. Despite this positioning, it remains a platform for the brand to flex its watchmaking muscles. Case in point: the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin, which clocks in at just 8.1 millimetres high. Vacheron Constantin has extended this model with a new reference in pink gold with a lacquered blue dial, which will lend some effortless chic to its wearer. Like every other Overseas timepiece, this reference is delivered with two straps in rubber and leather, as well as a matching integrated bracelet.

Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante ref. 5887

The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante has an ultrathin tourbillon movement as its base calibre. Over this, other complications have been stacked. They include a perpetual calendar ‒ with a retrograde date display, no less ‒ as well as a running equation of time that’s tracked via the central sun-tipped hand. Unlike a normal equation of time display, this execution displays the solar time directly by reading off a cam with a “finger”, then translating this via a differential to mark the offset from civil time, as represented by the minutes hand. It’s technically complicated, but visually elegant. The latest reference of this model comes in a rose gold case complemented by a slate grey dial.

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater

The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater was first presented in 2015, and features atypical variants of two complications. The decimal minute repeater here strikes the time exactly as you would read it ‒ in hours, tens of minutes, then minutes ‒ instead of relying on quarters like a typical minute repeater, so no mental calculations are needed to add the quarters and minutes together. The digital time display, on the other hand, eschews traditional hands to present the time using three separate discs. They match one another completely as a result, with the repeater chiming the time exactly as it is displayed. The new reference comes dressed in white gold with a deep blue dial, and is limited to just 30 pieces worldwide.

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Boutique Edition

IWC has been closely associated with the perpetual calendar since 1985, when it unveiled a new iteration of the complication developed by the brand’s then head watchmaker Kurt Klaus. Conceived as a module, Klaus’ version could be adjusted using just the crown. This wasn’t only convenient, but also did away with the pushers to adjust each display, which typically lined a perpetual calendar watch’s case middle. The result is a cleaner look. The new version here should be familiar to connoisseurs, with an additional moon phase display at 12 o’clock, but sports a new Armor Gold case that promises to be more scratch resistant than typical 5N red gold. It will only be available at IWC boutiques. AM