78 MAS­TER­CLASS

Ex­ec­u­tive pas­try chef Jackie Li and chief baker Kevin Tee from Carl­ton Ho­tel Sin­ga­pore whip up a sweet storm in the kitchen with cof­fee cherry with poached pear ver­rine and choco­late or­ange brioches.

Epicure - - CONTENTS -

Cof­fee cherry with poached pear ver­rine and choco­late or­ange brioche

Ti­ramisu is the first thing that comes to mind when one talks about cof­fee flavoured desserts, but if you are looking to ex­pand your bak­ing reper­toire, the chefs at Carl­ton Ho­tel Sin­ga­pore have the recipe for you. Imag­ine bright cherry foam crown­ing cof­fee-flavoured panna cotta, cradling a poached pear com­pote and a pis­ta­chio sponge. Ex­ec­u­tive pas­try chef Jackie Li demon­strates how to ex­e­cute the lay­ered dessert’s myr­iad com­po­nents and trans­form it into a show­stop­ping dessert.

“Pas­try mak­ing in­volves a lot more than just mix­ing to­gether su­gar, but­ter and flour. Small de­tails make a big dif­fer­ence,” says Li. “For ex­am­ple, in­stead of us­ing in­stant cof­fee gran­ules in the cof­fee cream com­po­nent, crushing fresh cof­fee beans adds more depth and a stronger cof­fee flavour.” The Bai­leys used in the panna cotta should only be added to the mix­ture at the last minute to avoid burn­ing off the al­co­hol. “In­vert su­gar for the ganache can­not be sub­sti­tuted with reg­u­lar su­gar, as the for­mer is a con­cen­trated su­gar syrup used to keep the pas­try prod­uct moist and pre­vent it from looking dry. Sim­i­larly, (liq­uid) glu­cose should have a wa­ter-like con­sis­tency and should be loos­ened in the mi­crowave oven if it’s too thick,” ad­vises Li. Macadamia nuts, an in­gre­di­ent in the mak­ing of caramel macadamia candy, should be warm so that the hot caramelised su­gar doesn’t seize or clump to­gether on con­tact with nuts at room tem­per­a­ture; warm nuts al­low for smoother coat­ing of the su­gar.

And for the foam com­po­nent, sosa whip (milk pro­tein hy­drolyza­tion) is used to speed up the process of in­cor­po­rat­ing air into the cherry pureé when whipped, so that the re­sult­ing foam is light and rid­dled with air bub­bles. Cou­pled with egg white pow­der, the re­sult­ing foam is stronger and holds more body for a longer pe­riod of time.

There are few things as won­der­ful as the aroma of freshly baked bread waft­ing through the kitchen. Kevin Tee, chief baker at Carl­ton Ho­tel Sin­ga­pore di­vulges his tips for mak­ing light-asair choco­late or­ange brioches. “Mak­ing bread is a time-sen­si­tive process, one that should not be rushed. For ex­am­ple, the step for mak­ing home­made or­ange peel should be started two to three days be­fore, so that the peel ab­sorbs max­i­mum flavour.” Most bread recipes call for yeast only for the fer­men­ta­tion and ris­ing. But us­ing bread im­provers is im­por­tant to sta­bilise the yeast and al­low it to rise bet­ter, ren­der­ing a lighter loaf. Giv­ing the dough enough time to rest between shap­ing and punch­ing it down be­fore knead­ing again all help in ac­ti­vat­ing the gluten and mak­ing the bread softer in each bite. Fi­nally, while it is im­por­tant for the dough to rest in a cov­ered prover, let­ting the dough air-dry be­fore bak­ing is also crit­i­cal to en­sure that the crust is crunchy and dry when baked.

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