VINE EXPECTATIONS

Kai Schätzel has transformed Weingut Schätzel in the Rheinhessen into the most talked-about Riesling producer, guided by nature and intuition but taking cues from the world of start-ups. By June Lee

Kai Schätzel of Weingut Schätzel.

For instance, he shows me (via Zoom) how he trains his vines to use leaves as natural foliage, to avoid grapes from over-ripening and trying to take in too much water as a consequence. The shadows cool down the vine system naturally.

Today, the winery is working organically with 16 hectares that comprise vineyards in Hipping, Ölberg and Pettenthal on the ‘red slope’ among others. The special red slate soil parcels are part of the extremely steep slopes that face south to southeast over the Rhine River, imbuing them with favourable long ripening periods. Kabinett is Weingut Schätzel’s calling card, the lightest style of Pradikatswein (quality level), which in the winery’s case, can go as low as 7.5% alcohol while still achieving its flavour and balance. While 80% is planted with Riesling, they also have their own Silvaner clone as well as some Pinot Noir. The overall production is between 60,000 and 100,000 bottles, but it’s not the quantity that Schätzel looks at, it’s the quality, and finally the prices – for instance, from €10 in yesteryears to €200 a bottle today for the top auction label.

“Tradition is a mood or spirit,” says Schätzel. “You want to keep that spirit but reinvent yourself. Look at the vineyards and how it has changed since my grandparents’ time. It was much cooler, and they had to pick the grapes before full ripening or risk mold. Today, it is the other way around. Yet we are just as traditional as 60 years ago – with deep handwork and free of machines in the steep vineyards, for instance. And after picking and sorting the grapes by hand, we crush them by foot. It may look romantic as though it’s the Middle Ages, but it’s the best way to get the result we want.”

100% Riesling A pristine, dry-style Riesling, which comes across light-bodied thanks to its pleasant tension and acidity. White peach and honeysuckle on the nose, leading to a mineral-tinged, juicy palate. Try it with white meat and spicy cuisines.

$57

Schätzel and other young winemakers of his generation who are changing the industry are often called ‘Burgundian’ in their approach. Perhaps this is part of the legacy of Otto, whose teachings influenced a new generation of winemakers seeking authenticity and a terroir-driven approach. Tongue-in-cheek, Schätzel points to Mother Nature and Father Rhine as his strongest influences. “There are many influential wine icons, and of course