Epicure

A MODERN TWIST ON SEAFOOD SHACKS

Cooking great seafood isn’t just about technique. Eventide is proof that it really does start from having quality ingredient­s, treating them right and enjoying them with the best complement­ing accoutreme­nts possible. By Priyanka Elhence

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I’m always eager to try out new, unpretenti­ous cookbooks that promise a delicious, hearty dish that is easy enough for a skilled home cook to replicate, especially without the need for fancy, onetime-use-only gadgets that never see the light of day again.

And Eventide is exactly that. With recipes from its hugely popular, moniker oyster shack and seafood restaurant in Portland, there’s nothing pompous about this tome. With the restaurant brought together by just regular guys who were inspired by their childhood memories of happy family summers traversing New England’s coasts, you know you’re in for some quality reading, nuggets of knowledge, and of course, gorgeous grub. Eventide really is about letting fresh, high-quality seafood sing for itself and shine in the spotlight without the need for any frills - just like the authentic Maine seafood experience we all know. the simple Tuna Crudo. Complement­ed by a ginger scallion recipe by Momofuku Group’s David Chang, tare and crunchy radishes, a homemade sashimi appetiser couldn’t be any easier or elegant.

With most of the images being quite stunning, it’s hard to decide on what not to cook. But I finally settled on the Grilled Squid Salad because of its sophistica­ted plating and pop of colours. The squid component is straightfo­rward as usual, and works just as well with frozen squid if you can’t get your hands on fresh produce. But it was the confit potatoes that took a few tries for me to get just right, despite their super-simple technique. And I’ve always admired how effortless­ly an olive crumble adds a salty punch to a dish but never realised that making one could be so simple.

Try your hand at the Eventide Steamed Bun, which are for several other recipes in the book, including a classic Brown Butter Lobster Roll, a Fried Oyster Bun and a Crab Roll with Yuzu Kosho mayonnaise. I like the katsu-style Fish Sandwich, and the Eventide Burger is another must-try. It’s originally made from aged mince beef, and is the only non-fish or seafood recipe in the cookbook.

End with simple, classic American desserts such as a Whoopie Pie or a Honey-roasted Peanut Butter Cookie. And despite beer being the classic pairing for seafood, there’s a small chapter dedicated to creative cocktails that complement the seafood indulgence. Wash down a platter of oysters with The Celery Gimlet or try the potent spiced Walking Dead, a twist on the tiki classic Zombie.

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