Carving Kiroro!
It’s 1 April in Hokkaido’s Akaigawa Village, and the first light of the month sneaks through the gap in our window. A crisp breeze wakes me from my slumber. Eager to start the day, I hop to life and fling the curtains open; the skies are clear, the birds are chirping and the branches are budding – spring has arrived. But, hold on a second; the rooftops have a new layer of icing and there’s a fresh foot of snow carpeting the hotel grounds. As my eyes adjust to the glare and study the horizon, I spot several specks of bright colours carving “S” shapes in the mountainside.
“Yesss!” I shout as I pounce around Martin on the bed – he’s still half asleep under the duvet. “Get up – it’s go-time!”
Winter may be on its way out, but there’s still plenty of snow to conquer here.
Japow!
The ski season in Japan generally runs from midDecember through to the end of March, with visitors flocking from all corners of the globe. Considered the Holy Grail for powder snow, Hokkaido is hit by seasonal winds from Siberia that carry a constant supply of moisture across seas, releasing it as heavy snowfall that’s dry and pillow-like in structure. For skiers and snowboarders, “pow” is the sweetest kind of snow: fun, fluffy and forgiving on your backside! It makes for ideal conditions for every skill level, from nervous novice to speed-hungry snowboarder. Couple that with the renowned Japanese hospitality, epic food and heavenly onsen, and it’s no wonder the popularity of skiing in this country continues to grow exponentially.
With prolific powder, though, comes lofty prices, crowded pistes and frigid conditions. During the peak season, prices surge and accommodation can be fully-booked, often years in advance. In popular areas such as Niseko and Hakuba, slopes are crowded and restaurant bookings are essential well in advance. Trust me, when temperatures drop below a bonechilling -6°C, you won’t want to be in an outdoor queue looking in on your toasty comrades tucking into a bowl of ramen.
From sun and snowfall to sakura and strawberries, these ski enthusiasts discover why spring is the golden season in Japan.
The Smart Season
What many people aren’t aware of is that many resorts in Japan have prolonged ski seasons that can run as late as May. This spring window can often be the unsung hero, especially in the more coastal and elevated areas that see extended snowfall. So, if you’re flexible on timing and open to exploring other regions, there can be huge benefits of booking off-peak. For one, flights can be more reasonably priced and the cost of accommodation and ski-lift passes take a plunge. Slopes are less crowded, too, meaning little to no queueing for lifts, and fewer collisions. And the cherry on a heavily iced cake? The weather is not only warmer, but holds the chance of more blue skies, clearer days and Instagrammable moments.
This was our third time to hit the slopes of Japan, but a first to test out this off-peak theory and explore a new region of Hokkaido. With the sun shining and the forecast promising even more snow, it’s safe to say we’re off to a cracking start.
Why Kiroro?
Two hours from New Chitose Airport, Kiroro Resort is a mountain valley on the west coast of Hokkaido. Though quiet and humble in size when compared to its popular neighbour, I am told by residents that Kiroro is often fondly seen as being reminiscent of Niseko’s heyday: preoverdeveloped, pre-crowds, pre-party town, just pure pow. While the snow quality of southwest-facing Niseko begins to falter around mid-March, Kiroro maintains better conditions for longer thanks to a northwest orientation. Snow can still be prevalent through to as late as May.
Stretched across two peaks and served by nine lifts and a gondola, Kiroro has 21 runs with an equal spread of green, black and blue runs for all levels. With an astounding average of 21 metres of snow annually, the conditions are perfect for both first-timers and thrill-seekers. Wide and uncrowded pistes allow ample space for newbies, while those with more experience can weave between the trees and take on the back- and side-country terrain. These areas within the resort’s boundaries are frequently patrolled, meaning you can push your limits and enjoy waist-deep, ungroomed powder. Those really wanting to raise the bar can tour the epic backcountry, either with an experienced tour guide or by registering their route with the Mountain Club.
Where to Stay
Kiroro Resort comprises two hotels, The Sheraton Hokkaido and The Kiroro, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel. There’s also a brand new luxury condo, Yu Kiroro, due for completion at the end of the year. We were lucky enough to tour the showroom and see the magic in the making. It came as no shock to hear that most of the 108 units are already sold out; the one- to three-bed units come with direct access to the slopes, lush chalet interiors, heated flooring, dreamy views, an in-house ski valet and, if you’re lucky, a personal balcony onsen!
Good news is these units will also be available for rent, in addition to the two hotels that are reasonably-priced and aptly equipped. Their close proximity to one another means guests can enjoy shared access to the restaurants and facilities, such as the heated swimming pool and outdoor stone pool, and an ultimate kids’ play area with climbing wall, arcade games and pirate-themed bouncy castle.
While the Sheraton is the newer of the two and provides skiin and ski-out access, Tribute is less than five minutes away via complimentary shuttle bus. And if, like us, you enjoy a bit more character and quirkiness in your accommodation, this building has it. Constructed for piano manufacturer Yamaha and formerly known as The Piano Hotel, the building’s grandeur is still evident in its impressive architecture and interior. Despite a top-to-toe six-month renovation in 2016, its endearing musical history remains woven into the architectural design, from the grand foyer’s resemblance to a concert hall to the music notes adorning the elevator doors.
Though simple and minimalist in true Japanese style, the rooms are pleasantly spacious. Carpeted and comfortable, our room was a toasty respite from the snow with a King bed serving us some of our deepest sleeps yet. Couple that with the phenomenal breakfast buffet spread each morning, and the penetrating heat of the hot spring onsen and stone sauna, and our muscle recovery was on point, leaving us refreshed for the slopes each day – even straight through to night skiing on some evenings!
Sushi & Sake
There’s ample choice for sustenance on location at Kiroro, with 11 restaurants spread across the resort, including a fine-dining traditional sushi house, Japanese steakhouse and a casual ramen café and bar. And for days when only pizzas and fries will scratch that itch, the Alpine Brasserie and Alla Moda Italian Restaurant are just as delicious. Unfortunately, one novel spot we just missed during our visit was the Ice Star Restaurant. Open only in the winter, this place is constructed entirely of ice, from the building down to the tables, chairs and serveware; diners wrap themselves in thick rugs and warm up with whisky and cheese fondue.
For an on-the-go meal, most people park their skis outside Cafeteria Lumiere, a food court serving up huge portions of local favourites from Japanese curries and sushi bowls to our newfound favourite, tan-tan ramen, a pork noodle dish in a rich and nutty sesame, soy and chilli soup to warm the core. Then it’s back to play until the food pangs resurface in the late afternoon. When they do, there are food trucks and halfway cafés to choose from. We enjoyed stopping for a mid-ski hot chocolate or Sapporo beer at the Crest café halfway up Mount Nagamine, while wafts of fresh waffles and burgers reeled us in for a quick break at the foot of the slopes.
Beyond Skiing
While carving waist-deep powder is Kiroro’s biggest appeal, there’s an abundance of winter activities that are just as rewarding and perfect for the family. If nature is your muse, take a snowshoe tour to explore the Hokkaido wilderness or visit neighbouring Hopi Hills Farm to meet the friendly farm animals and go horse trekking. For ages four and up, Kiroro’s Snow Park is great for tubing and sledding, while older kids and adults can rent buggies, fat bikes, snowmobiles and winter segways. A holiday highlight for us, however, was the Snow Banana Boat! Who knew a beachside favourite would be equally as fun skidding on ice and flying over snow ramps?
If time permits, there’s also plenty to explore beyond the Kiroro resort complex. A 40-minute shuttle bus frequently runs to the charming seaside town of Otaru, known for its historic canals, glassware, breweries, izakaya and seafood restaurants. Whisky aficionados can also stop off at the neighbouring town of Yoichi to tour and taste the delights of the Nikka Whisky Distillery.
FACT FILE
Getting there: Flights from Singapore to New Chitose Airport operate daily on multiple airlines, including Singapore Airlines and Scoot. From there, Kiroro is a two-hour bus journey away.
Accommodation: Rates at The Kiroro, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel and The Sheraton Hokkaido start from S$134 per night (inclusive of tax and service charge). For more information on Kiroro Resorts, visit kiroro.co.jp.