BRIGHT IDEAS

WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO ACHIEVE CLEAR, RADIANT SKIN? WE GO THROUGH THE LATEST WHITENING SKINCARE TO SUSS OUT THE BRIGHTENING UPDATES YOU NEED TO KNOW.

We suss out the whitening updates you need to know.

MELANIN TRAVELS

It is not just passed on to skin cells by melanocytes (the cells that produce melanin), it also travels from cell to cell through filopodia, which are like tunnels between cells. Within these “tunnels” are motor proteins called Myosin X that pick up and diffuse substances like water or melanin into the surrounding cells. Thus, melanin moves horizontally as well as vertically (as part of skin renewal). The result: Skin grows dull and opaque from within. To combat this, Dior scientists, working with the University of Bradford in the UK, discovered that Myosin X activity must be suppressed.

Melanin transfer between cells is also triggered by what Taka Sakoda, director of research and development at Dior’s Asian Innovation Center in Tokyo, calls Urban Ozone. In urban areas, air particles can be changed by UV rays and heat or humidity into a kind of free radical. When they penetrate skin, they cause a 47.3 per cent increase in melanin production and a quadruple increase in melanin transfer.

Enter Diorsnow’s new and reformulated skincare, which comprises an essence, rich and light moisturisers, a BB cream and eye cream, a UV base and a makeup remover. All have the new Floral Transparency Complex, made up of antiinflammatory and moisturising mallow extract and other natural ingredients. The complex is said to inhibit the production of Myosin X and limit vertical migration of melanin up to the skin’s surface. The line is also infused with Icelandic glacial water, which supposedly helps skin absorb active ingredients better, and TEC, a cocktail of actives that promises to help skin stay more luminous, moisturised, plump and smooth.

NO INFLAMMATION, NO PIGMENTATION

When skin is inflamed, whether due to stress, trauma, irritation or sensitivity, it triggers “inflammatory mediators”. These molecules, released by immune cells when harmful agents invade the body, act like first aid to soothe the inflammation. The downside: When too many of these mediators are produced, skin reacts by over-producing melanin, leading to dark spots.

To combat this, Chanel has reformulated its Le Blanc Whitening Concentrate Double Action TXC. The star ingredient of the watery serum is the TXC molecule, said to be able to regulate inflammation messengers as well as provide whitening and soothing effects.

“The molecule acts as an inhibitor to regulate the production of inflammation mediators,” says Nobuhiro Ando, managing director of Chanel Research and Technology Development Laboratory.“It does not prevent production, as it is dangerous to stop any kind of enzyme activity in the body. Instead, it balances production to bring skin back to its original condition.”

Other inflammation soothers: Japanese cosmetics company Cosme Decorte has two new whitening offerings. Its AQ MW Repair Emulsion White has an algae extract that supposedly curbs the overproduction of the proteins that cause inflammation.

The brand has also reformulated its Whitelogist MX serum to include rhodiola sacra root extract and echinacea leaf extract. The former soothes, while the latter strengthens skin’s immunity.

Sulwhasoo’s Snowise EX Whitening Spot Serum has white ginseng extract, said to be able to block the proteins that cause inflammation. It also hydrates as dry skin tends to be sensitive. Similarly, Lancome’s Blanc Expert Melanolyser III Integral Whiteness Spot Eraser has mint and rose extract to soothe skin and reduce the production of inflammatory messengers.

Clinique’s reformulated Even Better Brightening Moisture moisturisers now have chamomilla recutita extract, an anti-irritant that works like an antihistamine to curb the effects of skin irritation, such as overproduction of melanin. The Cream Plus version has a richer texture for dry complexions, while the Gel-cream melts into skin.

HOW SKIN REFLECTS LIGHT

Studies by Japanese beauty brand SK-II have revealed that it is the second layer of the epidermis, located just below skin’s protective barrier, that is responsible for giving skin a glow. The layer contains granular cells (commonly known as “granules”) that have a refractive index similar to that of glass, says Taro Yamaguchi, scientific communications manager of Global SK-II Communications.

This, in effect, means that skin disperses light as effectively as glass. When light hits your face, these granules reflect and scatter light, thus blurring out imperfections and helping skin look flawless and radiant.

The more granules you have, the more effective a reflector your skin is. To help, the brand’s Cellumination Aura Essence, a lightweight serum with ume (Japanese plum) extract, supposedly increases the number of granules in your skin by up to 55 per cent.

It also has vitamin B3 to inhibit the transfer of melanin within your skin cells. Without melanin to block or disrupt, light can travel through to that second layer of your skin, giving the granules a better chance to do their optical illusion trick.

SKIN NEEDS BOTH SURFACE AND DEEP HYDRATION

Never mind that a dewy complexion is a beauty “must” now, just because the K-pop-inspired look is still going strong. Dewy is not just about keeping skin spot-free, but also having a moist and plump finish at all levels to give skin maximum radiance. That’s why Clarins, for one, has reformulated its White Plus Total Luminescent Brightening Hydrating Emulsion SPF20 and Smoothing Brightening Night Cream to do just that.

Both double-action moisturisers have two sizes of hyaluronic acid molecules: The large ones stay on the skin’s surface, keeping it looking moist and dewy. The small ones penetrate into the deeper layers to plump up skin.

The two products also have the Trans-luminescent Complex – a mix of plant extracts previously found only in the brand’s Intensive Brightening Serum. It promises to normalise what the brand calls the “micro-mirror structures” in skin, improving their ability to reflect light. The result: a rosy, translucent look.

INSTANT RESULTS ARE POSSIBLE

According to Art Pellegrino, Elizabeth Arden’s vice-president of Research & Development, one big trend in whitening is products that can deliver “instant brightening benefits”. That’s why the beauty brand created the Visible Whitening Intense Brightening Biocellulose Mask.

The sheet mask has liquorice extract to prevent the formation of dark spots, and optical diffusers like mica minerals and corn starch to help reflect light so that skin looks clearer and more radiant.

Cle de Peau Beaute’s Illuminating Concentrate is a three- step treatment that includes a lotion, essence and mask. The lotion helps get rid of dead skin cells on the surface, the essence promises to plump up skin and even out its texture so it can better reflect light, and the gel sheet mask hydrates. Expect skin to look refreshed and brighter after just 15 minutes.

And Shu Uemura’s Whitefficient Brightseal Whitening Carbonated Mask, inspired by Japanese hot springs, has carbon dioxide, which reportedly boosts microcirculation and gives skin an immediate rosy glow. The mousse-textured mask also has a cocktail of acids to improve cell turnover.

SMOOTH SKIN IS A BETTER REFLECTOR

Skin’s surface needs to be smooth and refined for two reasons. One, it can reflect light better when it is clear, thus giving skin a glowing, radiant look. Two, any whitening skincare can penetrate more easily and deeper.

The pyrola plant extracts in Shiseido’s White Lucent Total Brightening Serum supposedly retexturise the top layer of skin so it is more reflective. The serum also has resveratrol (a grape extract), which inhibits excessive melanin production and reduces yellowish dullness.

The brand has a new Future Solution LX Superior Radiance Serum, too, that supposedly boosts the health of skin cells. When cells are healthier, they become more evenly aligned, resulting in a smoother skin surface.

Guerlain’s Abeille Royale Dark Spot Corrector Pore Minimizer has a blend of clover honey, thyme honey and royal jelly that reportedly help refine pores and lighten dark spots.

It also has smoothing and balancing powders that reportedly absorb sebum and work to “heal” the surface of your skin, giving your a complexion a more even texture.

ASIAN SKIN NEEDS MORE HELP

It’s no secret that pollution can disrupt cell renewal and up free radical damage on skin, which leads to pigmentation and a dull, grey complexion. The bad news: Asians are especially vulnerable.

“We have thinner skin than Caucasians, meaning we have a weaker barrier against moisture loss and external aggressors like UV rays and pollution,” says Adeline Wee, senior public relations executive of Estee Lauder. “Our research labs have discovered that because of this, Asian skin is more susceptible to pigmentation.”

The US brand’s new Cyberwhite HD Advanced Brightening Moisture Creme and Night Creme help to strengthen skin’s barrier function. Both have scutellaria baicalensis root extract, which supposedly neutralises skin irritation caused by pollution and UV rays. Likewise, Biotherm’s Liquid White Spot Focus serum has white lotus and algae extracts to boost the barrier function and brighten the complexion.

Korean beauty brand Laneige’s reformulated 6-in-1 BB Cushion has a new anti-pollution whitening ingredient – bead tree extract – said to be able to filter pollutants, such as cigarette smoke. It also supposedly suppresses the “antennas” of your skin that react to pollution by producing melanin. And

Kenzoki’s Whitening Skilful Serum has huang qin extract, which has anti-free radical and soothing properties.

ANTI-AGEING SKINCARE CAN BOOST WHITENING

Products traditionally formulated to tackle anti-ageing concerns, such as fine lines, wrinkles and sagging, can also help to brighten skin. Take organic immortelle essential oil, for example, which reportedly helps soften wrinkles and tighten skin.

In L’Occitane’s Immortelle Brightening Essence, it also promises to smooth fine lines so skin’s surface is more even and can reflect light better, giving it a glow.

As skin ages, it also loses its firmness and the dermalepidermal junction (the wall that supports your epidermis) sags. When this happens, melanocytes (the cells that produce melanin) sink, trapping melanin in skin’s deeper layers. This leads to persistent dark spots as the trapped melanin is not pushed up to the skin’s surface as part of the cell renewal cycle.

That’s where Guerlain’s Blanc de Perle Advanced White P.E.A.R.L. Drop comes in. It is said to restore the density of skin and strengthen the dermal-epidermal junction. In doing so, it pushes up melanocytes in the epidermis, so trapped melanin can be eliminated through the renewal cycle.