Master of the House
Singapore unexpectedly levelled up when we welcomed our first Master Sommelier in 2018 (the world has fewer than 300 master somms; it’s one of the hardest certifications to earn.) We got Ce La Vi’s Mathias Camilleri – he’s half French, half Singaporean – to pore over our wine list.
Are wine tastes different in Europe and Singapore?
In a cosmopolitan country like Singapore, I see more common points than differences. Probably the most significant trait is the taste for quality products like premium wines from the Old World and New World, and the curiosity to discover new products. One of the main differences is the timing of when new trends reach this city. For example, the current hot trend in Singapore is natural wines, which started to be popular in early 2010 in Europe. I also remain fascinated by the high consumption of heavy red wines (above 14 per cent) or spirits like brandies and whiskies in such a warm country.
Do you have some insider tips on how to read a wine menu?
At times, the cover of a book says more than we think. The wine list is the first tool of a sommelier; it represents her/his wine story through the vineyards and the winemakers she or he has visited and met, the wines shared with friends, family or colleagues. A sommelier will always try to reflect her/ his passion and care through the wine list.
Your new menu includes less obvious reds/whites – like Condrieu or Madiran. Why should we try these instead of chardonnay or pinot noir?
Ce La Vi’s wine list is organised by grape varieties. The idea behind a page like “Less Obvious” is to regroup the wines into one page where some of the grapes that are less famous can be discovered by our guests if they don’t know them, or be brought to mind if they know them.
In your one-page Sommelier List, you’ve included the likes of Super Tuscan Tignanello 2004 ($1,208 a magnum) and cult Australian Henschke Hill of Grace 2009 ($1,430). What’s the idea behind this?
Guests have asked me before if I have a special selection of premium wines. I also believe that most people don’t want to waste time looking for wines for their night. The Sommelier List was created so that passionate wine lovers could find all our iconic wines in one section.
Any wine trends that you’ve spotted for 2019?
Wine trends are difficult to predict. Wine is a unique beverage that can make a meal or a moment sublime. People just need to drink more affordable wines to be more knowledgeable.