A closer look
With a dizzying array of historical treasures to be discovered at every turn, the Van Cleef & Arpels: Time, Nature, Love exhibition is a must-visit if you’re in Seoul.
1 What: Arc de Triomphe powder case (1945)
Where (to find it): Time – Paris
Why: After World War II, Van Cleef & Arpels paid tribute to Paris and its famous landmarks by creating a collection of clips, charm bracelets and precious objects. This powder case in yellow gold, and adorned with rubies, emeralds and diamonds, depicts two figures strolling down a street against the backdrop of the Arc de Triomphe, the famous monument that honours those who fought and died for France.
2 What: Bird clip and Walska pendant (1971-1972)
Where (to find it): Time – Visibility
Why: This impressive piece showcases a flying bird carrying a staggering 96.62-carat briolette-cut yellow diamond. One of the Maison’s special orders, it was once owned by socialite and opera singer Ganna Walska, who wore the gemstone as a pendant. It was later auctioned off to a new owner who bought it for his wife to celebrate the birth of their son, and the piece was fashioned into a transformable creation that could be worn as a brooch, pendant or a pair of earrings.
3 What: Izmir necklace (2011)
Where (to find it): Time – Visibility
Why: Part of Van Cleef & Arpels Bals de Legende High Jewelry collection, this creation was inspired by a soiree held in 1969, hosted by French socialite Alexis, Baron de Rede. The decor for the night drew from One Thousand and One Nights, a collection of Middle Eastern tales. The onion-shaped domes of the buildings – dressed in various coloured gemstones – hark back to the palaces of the Ottoman Empire, while the piece de resistance, a 50.79-carat yellow sapphire, takes centre stage.
4 What: Wild Rose Minaudiere (1938)
Where (to find it): Time – Multiplicity
Why: This sleek box, no bigger than a paperback novel, houses a surprisingly large amount of things, including a powder compact, lipstick case, notebook, lighter, comb, and two compact boxes set with the Maison’s signature Mystery Set rubies. It is said that minaudieres like these were conceptualised when co-founder Charles Arpels spotted one of his clients tossing her accessories into a Lucky Strike cigarette tin.
5 What: Jarretiere bracelet (1937)
Where (to find it): Intersection – Couture
Why: For the first time, the iconic bracelet owned and worn by Marlene Dietrich has been made available for public viewing. The actor was often photographed wearing this disc-shaped bracelet with 73 cushion-cut rubies at events, and it even makes an appearance in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1950 film Stage Fright.
6 What: Art Deco night light (1930)
Where (to find it): Intersection – Architecture
Why: For a house known for its watches and high jewellery, it might be surprising to some that the Maison has created plenty of precious objects over the decade. At the height of the Art Deco movement, this modernist lamp made of green lacquer, black onyx, and pink quartz was produced, alongside other decorative objects such as ashtrays, cups, mirrors and more.
7 What: Five leaves clip (1967)
Where (to find it): Nature
Why: Legendary Greek soprano Maria Callas loved Van Cleef & Arpels, and would often visit the Maison at 22 Place Vendome. In her collection, the Five Leaves clip is one of the most well-known. The brooch, which features six cushion-cut rubies framed by brilliant diamonds weighing 30 carats in total, accompanied the singer during her many performances at the Theatre des Champs-Elysees in Paris.
8 What: Romeo and Juliet brooches (1951)
Where (to find it): Love
Why: It’s a love story for the ages, and there are few romances quite as well known as Romeo and Juliet’s. Shakespeare’s star-crossed lovers are seen positioned in the famous scene: where Romeo is down on his knee, while Juliet gazes down from her balcony. Their silhouettes are crafted with yellow gold threads and ribbons, and adorned with rubies, sapphires, emeralds and pearls.