Buying an independent watch? Here’s how to find a good one.
Karishma Tulsidas answers.
FOR THE PRACTICAL ONE
For a long time, the watch industry was dominated by large conglomerates, leaving space for independent watchmakers to only create timepieces that were exclusive and super expensive. Things have changed in the past few years, thanks to an influx of intrepid watch lovers who are on a mission to democratise mechanical watches and make them more accessible, without sacrificing quality. Baltic is one such brand.
Founded by Frenchman Etienne Malec, who inherited his love for watches from his father, Baltic is known for its three-pronged approach: quality mechanics, a neo-vintage design aesthetic, and affordability. The Hermetique, featured here, is a 37mm timepiece built to endure our daily vagaries with its 150m water resistance, double domed sapphire glass, Super-Luminova hands and numerals, and vulcanised rubber straps.
FOR THE DREAMER
A decade ago, financing a watch brand on Kickstarter would have been laughable in the industry. However, brands like Argon are changing that narrative, as it hit its funding goals in less than a minute on the fund-raising platform. It’s no surprise, given the uniqueness of the brand’s first watch, the Argon Spaceone. Shaped like a spaceship, it features a jumping hour indication. This is not the first space-inspired timepiece (look at De Bethune and MB&F), but it’s certainly the only one that’s priced attractively at less than 5,000 euros ($7,000).
FOR THE WATCH CONNOISSEUR
Any watch connoisseur worth their salt will recognise the name Gerald Genta, the man behind such iconic timepieces as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Calatrava. His eponymous brand was sold in 1999, and a year later, he set up Gerald Charles, which he would subsequently sell in 2003 to the Ziviani family. Helmed by an Audemars Piguet veteran, Octavio Garcia, Gerald Charles is undergoing a renaissance of sorts, grabbing eyeballs for its Maestro collection.
The unusually shaped watch is the brainchild of Genta himself, and is imbued with the iconic designer’s spirit. It comes in different avatars, including this playful, gem-set Maestro 8.0 Squelette, which is available in a limited edition of 10. What’s truly exceptional is that all the gem-set stones on the Maestro 8.0 Squelette are baguettecut, which is already a significant challenge when the case is round, and even more so for the Maestro’s unusual shape.
FOR THE JEWELLERY LOVER
Rarely has a watch brand been conceived with women in mind. Beauregard is the exception, as it melds watchmaking and jewellery-making to stunning effect. It has proven its mettle by being shortlisted twice for the Oscars of the watchmaking industry, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve.
Fun fact: Beauregard is the first Canadian watchmaking brand to be nominated. Demonstrating its savoir-faire is the limited edition Jardin D’Hiver boxed set, each with a dial crafted from precious materials and adorned with diamonds, showcasing the brand’s ode to femininity and beauty.