FROM THE ’ 90S NYMPH WITH HER UNABASHED SEX APPEAL, TO THE SWEET YOUNG THING STRAIGHT OUT OF A ROMANCE NOVEL, THE SEASON’S MOST DIRECTIONAL TRENDS RECALL STRONG HEROINES, NOT WALLFLOWERS.
SHINY SHOWGIRL
Flashy materials and shine ruled this season. At Carven, Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud gave sporty-meetstailored silhouettes sophistication with highsheen fabrics like silk crepe. Prada’s boxy Jackie O-like skirt suits and shift dresses were amped up with paillettes, strips of metallic snakeskin, and disco-ball earrings made of sequins. Meanwhile, Saint Laurent’s grunge-meets-glitter collection saw sequins on louche slips and mini mesh dresses matched with outerwear like jackets, denim capes and bombers. To top it off: sparkly crystal tiaras.
ROMANTIC PRINCESS
Designers explored romance too, with a princess/ Jane Austen heroine in mind. Dolce& Gabbana’s billowy empire dresses and long tunics came in lace and silk, and plastered with scenes from Italian postcards, while gauzy maxi gowns were embroidered with pretty floral motifs. At Diane von Furstenberg, dreamy chiffon gowns were embroidered with butterflies and flowers, while silk wrap dresses featured patchwork prints and silk scarf designs. The Giambattista Valli for Moncler Gamme Rouge collection had flouncy summer dresses in guipure lace adorned with prints of lily of the valley and images of French chateaus. Valentino, meanwhile, turned to the African savannah for inspiration. Tribal accents like Masai- esque beading, mask embellishments and peacock feathers were married with the brand’s signature romantic silhouettes.
’ 90S NYMPH
The brazen sex appeal of the ’ 90s also emerged on the runway. Dsquared2 riffed on beach culture with bodysuits, slinky bandage sheath dresses with generous amounts of cut-outs and thigh-high slits, and wet hairdos – calling to mind the image of swimsuit pin-ups. Nicolas Ghesquiere of Louis Vuitton added an edge to sexy with a cyberpunk-chick approach – think mesh tanks, skirts embellished with metal details, and midriff-baring tops aplenty. Even Vivienne Westwood got in the mood of the decade. The British designer referenced the wild layering of the era with oversized and relaxed suits and sweaters worn underneath schoolgirl frocks.