Mad About Oman
Cross the desert like an Arab man – in a Zegna linen suit, armed with a fully charged, Wi-Fi connected smartphone
It can climb up to 40, I was told in what sounded like a cross between a boast and a warning, but the temperature was really the least of my worries. I had planned to travel to Oman like a visiting pasha, an updated version of course, because my host was luxury travel operator Scott Dunn, and I was relying on their expertise to nudge me along to the nearest Bedouin tent for spiced tea and sticky dates or perhaps a beach bar for some G&T and samba at sundown. So, there were hats and shoes and scarves and jackets to mind, and a very real danger of exceeding the luggage allocation. Our first stop after a four-hour flight – give or take – from Singapore was Colombo, and after a short layover we were off for another four-hour flight to Muscat, population 800,000, the largest city and present capital of Oman. We landed around midnight at Muscat International Airport, the US$1.8 billion centerpiece of the government’s bid for international luxury tourism. Launched in March this year, the new terminal has a passenger capacity of 12 million, a staggering increase from the 2017 figure of just 1.2 million passengers. The airport is designed for 40 flights per hour and is perfectly aligned with the forecast 40 per cent increase in the number of visitors to Omanby2019. Muscat, the most densely populated city in Oman, seemed empty when we arrived, and it was probably not just because it was very late. With a total land area of 309,501 square kilometers and a population of 4.83 million, Oman is among the least densely populated countries in the world – with just nine people per square kilometer. In my mind, the prospect of blissful solitude, perhaps in an oasis, with a Hunter S. Thompson travelogue and a Spotify playlist for company, was becoming a palpable reality by the minute.
From Aida to Dueling Banjos
If you can find a valid reason to leave your suite at The Chedi Muscat – where earnest pampering begins but does not end with a king-size bed, a sunken bath, and carafes for gin, vodka and whiskey – perhaps you should consider a trip to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. A signifier of the Sultan’s wealth, and of Islam’s overarching influence, it is a magnificently designed and decorated example of Islamic architecture. Technology has doubtless played a part in its construction, but so have ancient architecture and engineering. The Grand Mosque is distinguished by five minarets, a 50-meter dome, and an array of courtyards flanked by arcades. It has a main prayer hall and a ladies’ prayer hall, a library with 20,000 books, and an elaborate garden. We marveled at the lavish adornments, including the enormous crystal chandeliers, intricate mosaics with gold calligraphy, decorated marble and stone claddings, carved Burmese teakwood, and what used to be, until recently, the largest seamless carpet in the world. But if you prefer a more secular landmark, head out to the Royal Opera House Muscat, a massive marble edifice in an interesting blend of Islamic fortress and latent Art Deco styles. The main theater is decorated with ornate carvings, the seats upholstered in deep red velvet. A mechanized stage with retractable apron and proscenium walls accommodates various types of performances. Musical instruments from the Sultan’s collection are displayed in niches on the walls of the gallery. Although costumes for a production of Turandot were prominently displayed in glass cases in the lobby, a cursory glance at the performance calendar revealed a mix of classical and pop acts, including a recital by tenor Roberto Alagna, and a concert by jazz singer Dianne Reeves. Audiences from Europe and Asia are said to travel to Muscat for performances they may have missed back home. Other important stops for insights into Omani history and culture are the old souk of Mutrah, the renovated fish market with colorful maritime-themed mosaics, the Al Jalali ancient fort, and the National Museum – in no particular order.