Borrowed Time
Vacheron Constantin commemorates one of its pioneering automatic watches with a swanky new Fiftysix collection
although vacheron constantin has a storied heritage that goes back to more than two centuries, its continued presence in the world of haute horlogerie would not be possible without constant progression. In the words of CEO Louis Ferla, “If you don’t innovate while the world progresses, you’ll wake up one day and everybody is ahead of you.”
Indeed, the brand has showcased impressive offerings year after year — from last year’s award-winning Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication, an ultracomplex watch with a slew of complications, to this year’s breath-taking Metiers d’art Les Aérostiers. The latter, which pays tribute to one of mankind’s earliest attempts at flying in the late 18th century, is intricately hand-engraved and micro-sculpted with gold hot air balloons against a translucent plique à jour enamel background. Both watches exemplify the maison’s expertise in haute horlogerie, which are though impressive often exceptionally out of reach.
A more strategic innovation this year comes in the form of the Fiftysix collection that includes a new entry-level piece. The vintageinspired family pays tribute to one of Vacheron Constantin’s first automatic watches, Ref 6073, from 1956. Though modelled after the vintage timepiece, the new collection flaunts a modern-day aesthetic, such as the original Maltese-inspired lugs, albeit with a more streamlined finish.
In the Fiftysix Self-winding, which is marketed as Vacheron Constantin’s most accessible watch, beats the new automatic Vacheron calibre 1326 that is lavished with a Côtes de Genève finishing. Especially with the steel version, it offers a gateway into Vacheron Constantin with entry level materials while keeping with the brand’s DNA.
The Fiftysix Complete Calendar lies on the other end of the price spectrum, showcasing a triple calendar layout with a classic design. It is driven by the proprietary calibre 2460QCL/1, with a moon phase function that’s adjustable every 122 years. The day and month are visible via two apertures, with the date indicated by a ticking blue hand. A moon disc lies at 6 o’clock; a blue night sky lavished with an 18k gold moon (pink gold for the gold version, or white gold for the steel).
Rounding out the collection is the Fiftysix Day-date, which uses the new self-winding Calibre 2475 SC/2, an in-house movement equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism. The watch is decorated with two snailed counters at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, indicating the day of the week and date, respectively. Also visible on the opaline sunburst dial is the power-reserve display at 6 o’clock.
Though all models are driven by different calibres, they share the same 22k pink gold oscillating weight, equally decorated with a Maltese cross applique. Each is offered in 18k pink gold and steel variants.