THE NEXT PHASE

Creative Director DANIEL LEE makes relaxed formal wardrobe the new norm, writes Rubin Khoo

Daniel Lee’s ascension as creative head of Bottega Veneta was an unexpected one. It seemed like the British designer whose previous role as director of ready-to-wear at Céline had been given the mammoth task of redefi ning the brand, succeeding Tomas Maier’s 17-year leadership. “I look forward to evolving what has gone before while contributing a new perspective and modernity,” he said in a statement that announced his appointment as creative director of Bottega Veneta.

His early days at the brand were spent figuring out his interpretation of the brand. Hence, there was obviously much anticipation surrounding Bottega Veneta’s pre-fall 2019 collection, what would be the first reveal of Daniel Lee’s creative vision for the brand since his appointment in mid2018. Then labelled as an unexpected choice to lead the luxury label, Lee’s appointment was perceived as being tasked with the challenge of making the brand more relevant, particularly to a younger audience.

For the preview of his first collection, Lee opted for the newly unveiled flagship store located in Ginza, Tokyo.

Lee had previously described his input on the spring collection as merely a “tweak”. But with his first full-fledged collection, Lee placed his own creative stamp on the distinctive legacy of the brand. The focus for Lee was to create a collection that defines “what a Bottega wardrobe can represent”. Yet, the fundamental principles of Bottega Veneta are adhered to – “craftsmanship; the nobility of natural material; an Italian heritage”.

Lee is certainly designing for the contemporary woman, with sensuality expressed through a focus on the silhouette

Primarily a womenswear designer in his previous life, his first unveil for menswear was bound to generate curiosity. Though critics point to a strong Céline influence, Lee didn’t disappoint, presenting a collection that is clean, minimalist and certainly modern. There is an easiness to the collection as Lee plays with looser proportions that mix the relaxed with the formal, in what has been described as the reality of dressing today.

Lee is certainly designing for the contemporary woman, with sensuality expressed through a focus on the silhouette. Coats are slender, while scarf dresses flatter the female form. There is a “peek-a-boo” element with skin fl irtatiously revealed through transparent fabric or windows that open onto the body.

Where accessories are concerned, the Bottega Veneta artisans continue to showcase their skill, exploring methods of knotting, weaving and braiding that are showcased through a range of bags. These are also featured with footwear, with the women’s shoes presented with a squared toe. Carrying through with Bottega’s architectural style, the accessories are minimal with hardware in gold and silver making a statement.

One supposes there are benefits that come with being an unexpected choice. There is an element of not being constrained by tradition while defining one’s own path. This is perhaps best personified with the reworking of the Intrecciato which has been explored in various forms and blown to “maxi size”, a pretty revolutionary step.

But perhaps bold steps are necessary when one is trying to establish a new identity and in doing so, Bottega Veneta presents a collection that is about today, creating a “wardrobe for life”.