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Two-tone is back with a vengeance, albeit with a twist, writes Justin Ng
Zenith scores a double first with the Defy Classic Two-tone. It is the first Defy Classic to be dressed in rose gold, apart from the collection’s maiden twotone model. The 41mm bi-colour case comprises titanium and an 18k rose gold bezel in brush finishing on the flat surface, while the tapered edges are smooth polished to create a contrasting effect. This mixed finishing is extended towards the bracelet, where titanium and 18k rose gold are used to create a complementary result. Hour markers and hands are gold plated, coated with Super-luminova SLN C1, and fixed atop an in-house openworked movement. The C1 variant lends a glow in the dark that skews towards white.
While Zenith is revered for its range of high-beat chronograph movements oscillating at 5Hz, for the Defy Classic Two-tone, the industry standard of a 4Hz automatic Elite 670 SK movement is preferred. Considering the watch is much more straightforward in terms of functionality and purpose, it is understandable that the brand has decided upon a movement based on the one reserved for its Elite collection of dress watches. Nonetheless, it wouldn’t be a Zenith movement without additional technological advancements in the silicon escape wheel and lever. Silicon is known for eliminating friction, impervious to magnetism, hence improving stability and accuracy. Besides 48 hours of power reserve, the movement is fitted with a skeletonised date wheel. Since the introduction of the Defy Classic range last year, it has ushered in a previously unexplored niche by the brand. That being sophisticated with a hint of sportiness, whose versatility means the watch can be worn to any occasion. The Defy Classic Twotone has just amped it up.
INSPIRED BY AVIATION PIONEER
As an offshoot of its wildly successful Santos de Cartier collection, Cartier’s Santos-dumont’s allure is anchored in simplicity. With only a pair of hands to indicate the hour and minute, it is the watch to wear when all you wish is to take it easy, without a sweep seconds hand constantly reminding you of every passing moment. Available in two sizes, the small model is 27.5mm wide, while the large model measures 31.4mm in width. The thickness for both is 7mm. Both exude unisex appeal so you can pick whichever you fancy. The bezel is made of 18k pink gold upon a stainless steel case. Inside the watch is a high-autonomy quartz movement that will last approximately six years before a replacement battery needs to be sought.
The Santos-dumont is among the most accessible offerings in the house of Cartier, in a universally recognisable, timeless design made famous by the related Santos de Cartier collection, which also has a number of two-tone novelties. Such pieces are the Santos de Cartier Chronograph and the Santos de Cartier Skeleton watch in 18k yellow gold and stainless steel. Subtle nuances exist between the two, for example, the Santos-dumont has no crown guards and comes with leather straps for now, compared to the more expansive Santos de Cartier.
THE ONE AND ONLY
Unlike certain in-demand Royal Oak models whose availability is purportedly shrouded in secrecy, the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked for Only Watch was openly auctioned off during the recent Only Watch biennial charity auction. The Code 11.59 collection is Audemars Piguet’s headlining act this year. Never since the launch of the Royal Oak Offshore two and a half decades ago, has the brand attempted such an audacious feat of launching an entirely new collection in its entirety. The retail version of the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked is clad completely in rose gold, leaving this unique 41mm piece for Only Watch the sole option for those who harbour an ardour for the dual tone of 18k pink gold, which makes up the octagonal case middle and hands, and 18k white gold, which encompasses the extra-thin bezel, lugs and caseback.
Despite the complexity of the openworked architecture adorned with a tourbillon, the in-house calibre 2948 is splendidly efficient, composing of 196 miniscule parts in total. This allows the brand to play with spatiality, symmetry and reconcile the dichotomy that exists between skeletonisation and minimalism. Echoing the twotone colour of the case, the rhodium-toned openworked plate is finished with vertical traits tirés and further enhanced by pink gold-tone titanium tourbillon and barrel bridges with polished rhodium-toned angles. The decoration also amplifies the depth of the movement’s architecture through 70 hand-polished angles.
TWO OF A KIND
Not one but two. Chopard’s Mille Miglia, commemorating the annual 1,000-mile regularity race where the brand’s Co-president Karl-friedrich Scheufele is a regular, now has two two-tone offerings to call its own. The 44mm 2019 Race Edition in stainless steel and 18k rose gold is a chronograph limited to 250 pieces, while the GTS Power Control in stainless steel and 18k rose gold is a familiar three-hand model with a retrograde power reserve indicator limited to 500 pieces.
Evocative of the sexy, curvaceous lines of classic automobiles, the 2019 Race Edition has a galvanic-treated, ruthenium-coloured dial with a multitude of snailed finishing across the main dial plate and subdials. The tachymeter is displayed on the polished 18k rose gold bezel with black aluminium inlay. The pushers and crown are also made of 18k rose gold, with the latter boasting a steering wheel motif. The caseback is stamped with the Mille Miglia logo and a blackened Pvd-treated chequerboard to impart enhanced racing characteristics. There is also an inscription of the phrase “Brescia > Roma > Brescia”, reading aloud the destinations where the race traverses. To put on the icing, the perforated driving-glove-inspired, cognaccoloured calf leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching has an underside of black rubber lining inspired by 1960s Dunlop racing tyres.
On the other hand, the GTS Power Control is a tad smaller at 43mm, featuring a circular satin polished dial where the sunken power reserve indicator is reminiscent of a fuel tank gauge. Despite belonging to the same family, both Mille Miglia limited editions have their own distinctiveness in aesthetics and functionality. As such, each uses a separate chronometer-certified automatic movement with varying power reserve rating.